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Ad Astra Per Aspera 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Pete Vanslooten, Rob Candland, Shayne Durfee, Troy Anderson
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 2,074
Submitted By: Stevie Nacho on Oct 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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on the First Ascent


PITCH ONE Climb easy terrain to a sling belay on a ledge (50' ish)

PITCH TWO From the sling belay walk up a ledge to a straight in crack. This is the only crack up a right of the belay that you can hand-jam for a few feet. Climb the crack to a few bolts.

After the second bolt arch left around a small corner and clip another bolt. Note: this is where I "wimped" out and avoided the good climbing by arching left to easier terrain. After clipping this bolt, make your way straight up to a giant ledge with a bolted anchor. We named this RED LEDGE because of the Giant red band of rock visible from Willard.

PITCH THREE Start up and right of the belay about 15 feet. Climb and arch left past some cam placements to bolts leading through a steep red face directly above the belay.

This is the crux for the route. It has bolts where you want and doesn't have bolts where you also want them. After arching up and left past bolts, climb left (north) for a few feet, then travel straight up past a few fixed pitons to a bolted belay.

PITCH FOUR The fourth pitch gains a big ledge then climbs straight above the belay. About 12-15 feet up, there is a great horn to sling, then a bolt, piton, and a bolt to a small ledge with a bolted anchor.

If you are in doubt of where to start the first pitch, look high and you'll see the bolts in a clean face. At the end of pitch five arch left (north) to the anchor.

PITCH FIVE Climb up a left to a fixed pin. Ascend straight up past more fixed pins and finish out a small roof crack. Above the roof, clip and anchor and continue to the summit!


The route is above Willard Utah. To find the start, hike the Willard Falls trail. Find the easiest path towards the great talus up and right (south) of the creek. Hike to the highest point of the talus. There is/was a kairn at the start of the route. LOOK FOR THE GIANT RED BAND OF ROCK the route travels through the middle of it.


Cams to #3 Black Diamond. Doubles on small cams. One set of nuts. Slings. 70 meter rope or two 60 meter ropes. Helmets. A good sense of rock navigation.

Photos of Ad Astra Per Aspera Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit with a mizpelled flag
The summit with a mizpelled flag
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the 4th pitch
Leading the 4th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: on the First Ascent of the last pitch
on the First Ascent of the last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: High on the top of the forth pitch.
High on the top of the forth pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: racking up for the first ascent
racking up for the first ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the second pitch
The start of the second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: The wall and route when viewed from the parking lo...
BETA PHOTO: The wall and route when viewed from the parking lo...

Comments on Ad Astra Per Aspera Add Comment
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By Bill Bones
Oct 12, 2011

Video of the First Accent
By Bill Bones
Oct 12, 2011

Once you are on the willard falls trail you will see the clif band to your right. When the trail bottles up you cross the river and head up the long scree field. When you see the trees bunched up in an obvious flat part of the cliff band you are getting close.
By bus driver
Oct 16, 2011

Yo Stevie Nacho. Good route. Now Ogden has a devils castle.

Treasures and tales await conquistadores on the summit. . .those who follow should tell a tale and leave a relic.
By Bill Bones
Oct 20, 2011

I have heard there are treasures up there too. Brought all the way from Tijuana ;)
By john bald
Jun 9, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Beautiful stone on this route. Hats off to the fa team. A well crafted classic. With a little TLC this climb is destined to become more popular. We did the 6th ascent. All tat was removed and replace with fresh for the season. Chains w/links would be appreciated. Recommend two ropes as there was more than one rope stretcher w/our 70. Crux reminded me of Eldo. Wall felt like Hayden, remote and adventuresome. Better than anything on the Castle!
By matt evans
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 21, 2015

Really fun route, pitch 3 was tough for a 5.9. Guess that's why FAers called it 5.9+. Left some real treasures in the summit box from tijuana at the top this time. No old sausage junk. Hurry up there though because, just like sausage, it will expire.

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