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Aculco Rock Climbing 


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Location: 20.15101, -99.91305 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,751
Administrators: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Jan 4, 2015  with updates from Alejandro
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Description 

This area is very reminiscent of Paradise Forks in Arizona. Called by some the "Indian Creek of Mexico," the climbs are predominantly 30-80 foot high cracks between basalt columns. The canyon containing the cliffs has several large bends, making for sunny or shady climbing possibilities depending on the time of day and year.

The area is covered in The Mexican Rock Climbing Guide Center-South (March 2013) pages 128-150. The guide lists over 100 climbs from 5.7 to 5.12a. You'll likely want doubles or triples of cams and a 20 or so foot long chunk of anchor rope. It's also likely you will find the grades in the guidebook to be stiffer than other areas (5.7 here is akin to 5.8 or 5.9 in Joshua Tree).

Just above the canyon on the Amealco (west) side is a business that sells carved stone (Venta de Sillar La Cascada). The owner (as of 01-2016), Mr. Martin Jimenez, and his family used to live in Reno, NV and speak English. They are great folks. Stop in and say hello!

You can camp right above the cliffs. The drawback is the frequent blasting that occurs in the nearby quarry.

The beautiful town of Aculco has numerous markets, dozens of eateries and several hotels. A room can be had at the Hotel Hidalgo in downtown Aculco for about $30US/night. Rooms can be reserved in advance via their Facebook page. They will also allow you to take showers without renting a room (50p for two people as of 01-2016).

The town of Amealco is worth a visit if you have a rest day or the weather is uncooperative. On the way to Amealco, stop and check out the "old school" rock quarrying operation alongside the road - amazing!!!!!

Getting There 

The Aculco climbing area is located a short distance from Mexico Highway 55 about an hour to the south of Queretaro and roughly two hours north of Mexico City in the state of Mexico. It is about a 70 minute drive between Jilotepec and Aculco.

From the Aculco exit of Highway 55, travel west about 10 kilometers toward the town of Amealco. The canyon containing the climbs will be just off the right (roughly northwest) side of the road near a cascade. The approach takes roughly 2-20 minutes, depending on which section of the canyon you go to.

From where you park, just off the road on a slab of rock, look left a few yards (toward the power poles at the top of the cliff) for orange and red circles painted on the rock. These marks denote the climber access trail and will take you easily down to the base of the cliff. The blazes then continue along the base of the cliff to The Prow. This descent is much more straightforward then the "Red Tree" (now grey stump) descent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Orange and red circle and carabiner paint marks de...
Orange and red circle and carabiner paint marks denoting the climber access trail from the parking lot.


Rock Climbing Photo: Paint blazes and the power poles. Venta de Sillar ...
Paint blazes and the power poles. Venta de Sillar La Cascada is just off the frame at the top left of the photo (to the left of the power poles).

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.3 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',7],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Aculco

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Aculco:
El Nopal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   e) El Nopal
La Muralla de los Sentidos   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   e) El Nopal
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Aculco

Featured Route For Aculco
Rock Climbing Photo: The left crack line.

Unknown (Off-Width) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  North America : Mexico : ... : f) Puños del Once
Start a few feet left of Puños del 11 below the obvious crack system. Climb up a couple ledges then step left and climb a finger and hand crack past a stump. Follow the widening crack to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Aculco Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking from the parking area on the side of the r...
BETA PHOTO: Looking from the parking area on the side of the r...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the la Cabaretera section of the Aculco ...
BETA PHOTO: A view of the la Cabaretera section of the Aculco ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The cascade at Aculco.
BETA PHOTO: The cascade at Aculco.

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