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Action Directe 

YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7c [details]
FA: Wolfgang Güllich, 14 Sept. 1991
Page Views: 5,909
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 10, 2011

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Wolfgang Güllich on his masterpiece

Description 

Of course, I haven't actually done this route, but I wanted to add it since it's one of the most famous rock climbs in the world. Now you can see exactly how to find it, should you come visit the Frankenjura.

This route was the world's first internationally recognized 9a (5.14d/UIAA 11). It was put up by Wolfgang Güllich who trained specifically for this climb by inventing the campus board and doing one finger one arm pull-ups. Dave Graham, the fourth person to climb Action Direct, was the first who didn't train like this for this climb.

Here's the list of people who have redpointed this brutal route (from Wikipedia):

1. Wolfgang Güllich, Germany, 14.09.1991
2. Alexander Adler, Germany, 09.09.1995
3. Iker Pou, Spain, 07.06.2000
4. Dave Graham, USA, 21.05.2001
5. Christian Bindhammer, Germany, 14.05.2003
X. Richard Simpson, Great Britain, 13.10.2005 (Simpson claimed to have sent this but this now appears to be a lie)
6. Dai Koyamada, Japan, 16?.10.2005
7. Markus Bock, Germany, 22.10.2005
8. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria, 25.09.2006
9. Adam Ondra, Czech Republic, 19.05.2008
10. Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, Spain, 24.10.2008
11. Gabriele Moroni, Italy, 17.04.2010
12. Jan Hojer, Germany, 22.05.2010
13. Adam Pustelnik, Poland, 10.10.2010
14. Felix Knaub, Germany, 22.10.2011
15. Rustam Gelmanov, Russia, 26?.03.2012
16. Alexander Megos, Germany, 03.05.2014
17. Felix Neumärker, Germany, 16.05.2015
18. Julius Westphal, Germany, 25.06.2015
19. Stefano Carnati, Italy, 14.06.2016
20. David Firnenburg, Germany, 29.10.2016
21. Stephan Vogt, Germany, 04.04.2017

Location 

Left-most route on the formation.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchor


Photos of Action Directe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Ondra making the 10th ascent of this insanely...
Adam Ondra making the 10th ascent of this insanely...

Comments on Action Directe Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Martin
From: Kearns, UT
Oct 3, 2011

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 6, 2012

The above video is Dimencia Senil and it is in Spain. I am not sure why this is posted up under Action Direct which is in Germany. Sure the guy climbing in the video has climbed Action Direct, but other than that, wrong climb in the wrong country.
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Jun 14, 2012

Yes, I agree with Darren. Cool vid, but completely irrelevant to this climb.
By Pitty
From: Marbach
Dec 19, 2012

I'm curious to know who really made it REDPOINT....
Adam Ondra surely not, he had pre-clipped the bolts....
This route is definetely much harder if clipping! And Wolfgang did remove all quickdraws after each attempt! This guy was a way better climber than most of the repeaters...... m.p.o!
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 9, 2014

Action Directe is named for a French terrorist organization. It took Gullich 11 days spread over three weeks to redpoint, not to mention a year of special dynamic first-digit one-finger training on the Campus board, which he invented and installed at the Campus training center in Germany.

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