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Act or React (?) T 
Big "O", The T 
Dirty Old Man Crack T 
Hot Sex T 
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Sinbad Was a Dog T 
Spittness T 
Tiffany's Mall Tour T 
Unnamed T 
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Unnamed Left Facing Corner with the Stacked Blocks Start T 
Unnamed Switching Corners Crack with Crumbly Slot Start T 
Violator, The T 
Walk the Plank T 

Act or React (?) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Nov 11, 2014

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Out of the crux an on the way up

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I spotted a very faint route name scratched into the rock just right of the start. I could make out something like: Actor Reactor or Act or React..

Excellent hand crack with powerful and steep start. Difficulties drop considerably afterwards with cruiser hands, big feet holds, and a couple of pods. Decent warm-up after the initial bulge. Anchors are set a bit far back on the ledge. Easy enough to hang a TR on Violater to the right from this ledge.

Beware of how/where you place cams after the bulge. There is a stuck #2 like 4 ft back in the crack that most likely got pushed back by the rope due to the angle change. Clean every piece on the way down.

Location 

at the top of the left approach trail.

Protection 

maybe (1-2) #1C4, (3-4) #2C4, and (1-2) #3C4


Comments on Act or React (?) Add Comment
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By Dirk Diggler
From: Boulder, Colorado
Mar 28, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Another comment about being diligent with gear placement. The angle change flipped my #2 at the bulge around causing the rope to get pinned between the rock and the cam. Made upward progress impossible. Be careful!

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