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Across The River From Butt Hair 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Duncan Ferguson, 1973
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 3,178
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 30, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Through the 2nd crux. Note the excellent gardening...

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  • Description 

    Just to the left of roof on the the famous Tagger route a slab meets a slight overhang low on the face to form a slightly open-book dihedral with a thin crack. Start up this crack or up the slab to the right to reach a thin crack and flake on the vertical face above. This feature lies almost immediately left of the Tagger roof itself.

    Place a few thin nuts cams or sliders and then work up onto the top of the flake and pull onto the slab (5.8+), using good holds that are not obvious from below. This seam and flake appears in the attached picture as a faint line above the first 'g' in the superimposed name Tagger. People below 5'6" might find this more difficult, but still reasonable. Move up onto the slab and either move right to Tagger's crack (above the roof) or stay on-route and run for the tree on little or no protection (5.7). Belay at the fixed rap at the tree.

    Either rap from the good fixed anchors or finish the route by moving up and right over easy terrain about 40 feet to a crack/seam through a bulge. Place a few good thin pieces and use small holds to pull through the routes crux (5.9) to another easy slab which becomes a dihedral (5.5)

    Variation I: upon reaching the final dihedral, move left under it and pull though a roof (5.9). This adds some difficulty to the route, but not much more quality.

    Variation II: Upon reaching the final dihedral, move far left, traversing the entire massive roof (reversing the Tagger Escape, 5.7) and move down to the belay below the Tagger Roof (3rd pitch) and continue as for Tagger. This is a good way to do Tagger when a large group has Pitch 1 clogged with a line of top-ropers.


    The protection is so-so at the pitch 1-crux (8+), with some medium-to-small nuts or offsets below. Slider nuts might be of some use, but I haven't tried. There is some runout on the face above the overhang, but the climbing is easier and can be protected by moving over to Tagger, above the roof. The second pitch also protects well on nuts and offsets. The first pitch, after doing it once to learn it, becomes one of the nicer solos at the base of the Wind Ridge.

    Photos of Across The River From Butt Hair Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the second crux.  photo by Marie B.
    Starting the second crux. photo by Marie B.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marie starting the first crux.
    Marie starting the first crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Below the second pitch crux.
    Below the second pitch crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Right above the first pitch crux.
    Right above the first pitch crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Solid gear below the crux. Good demonstration of r...
    BETA PHOTO: Solid gear below the crux. Good demonstration of r...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux on P2. The crux is the thin crack a...
    Above the crux on P2. The crux is the thin crack a...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the P1 crux. The flake my left hand is...
    Approaching the P1 crux. The flake my left hand is...

    Comments on Across The River From Butt Hair Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 21, 2002

    Be gentle with that flake. It may succumb to a big pull.
    By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
    Sep 7, 2004

    In response to "Where is Butt Hair": it is what would now be called a "Squeezed Route" between the west BUTTress and HAIR city on the Bastille, FA: Rob Candelaria & Dave Bowers, 1974 led in fine Trad form not using pro on either route = 5.9+ VS. It's listed in every guidebook I know of.
    By Brent Roaten
    From: Anchorage, AK
    May 23, 2006
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Climbed this route on Sunday. First crux is the meat of the route though not that difficult it requires considerable commitment above "so-so" gear. A fall before reaching the thank god holds above would likely deposit you on the ledge below or worse, on your belayer. Continuing straight up the slab from the ledge is a bit contrived and essentially unprotectable unless you trust small sketchy wires. The second pitch is worthwhile though not done often as I had to clean lichen and grass out of the crack to place gear. Probably not a good route for the new 5.9 climber in Eldo.
    By Phill T
    Mar 5, 2011

    A worthy route. P1 crux has good but small pro. I had a good #5 BD stopper and then a bomber #0.4 C4 a foot below that. These are at your feet when you pull the 'roof'. You can also dodge the crux by moving right around the arete and pulling over the p1 Tagger roof on a bomber fingerlock to jugs above, a move no harder than the direct start to Wind Ridge.

    P2 crux has again, small but good pro. Small stopper with a #0.5 C4 a foot below that, these at your ankles pulling the lip. It's a bit hairy, because you can't see what's over the lip until yer at it. If you can't commit, it's easy to bail left onto Tigger or right onto p3 of Recon.
    By Andy Kowles
    From: Longtuckles
    Oct 31, 2011

    Wicked fun crux. Don't yank on that flake, please! Be an Eldo gentleman like I know you can.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jan 17, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    On the first pitch, the pro is at your feet as you reach the good holds above. You have to stand on the flake to make the move. I don't think the flake is going to fall off soon, and if it does, this part of the route will get a lot harder.
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Feb 13, 2013

    Pitch 1 is the money! Pitch 2 is mostly cruising and is not well protected over the crux, but the crux is fun and the finish as well.
    By Ed Krejcik
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jul 23, 2017
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

    Not for the budding 5.8 - 5.9- Eldo leader. You will do crux moves above thin gear (at your feet), and then be required to run out 15-20 feet of relatively easy ground after that. There are bail opportunities to avoid the runouts after the cruxes on both pitches.

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