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Across the Globe 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: NOLS people, 1970s(?)
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Sep 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>


Do the first pitch of the Flake Route. From the ledge, proceed up a thin seam (RPs helpful),which is the crux, to the beginning of a long crack system that goes out to the right. The original route follows this crack out to a weird directional belay about a rope length out. Then up slab to top.

Last year, Ed DeLong, Aaron Steele and I put up a direct finish to this second pitch. Move right on the crack a little ways above the seam crux, then follow bolts up a shallow trough to a Fixx bolted rappel anchor, where the angle is walkable. We put in a rappel anchor out right of the first belay ledge as well, so you can rappel the route.


Do the first pitch of the Flake Route, the long, straight flake system on the right side of the dome. At the first belay ledge, go up and right to a thin seam, hence fairly straight up to anchor at top. Original route follows the crack system at the end of the seam way out and right. The second belay out there is a bit manky though, in my opinion. Rappel the direct finish route with 2-55m ropes. Fixx rappel anchors are in place.


Some cams to #2 camalot for the first pitch. Some thin stuff (RPs nice) for the crux seam.

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