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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Californication S 
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 
Dexter S 
Erika S 
Fire and Rain S 
Firestarter S 
Friends S 
Full Respect S 
Hustle T 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 
Lightning Strike S 
Loyalty S 
Nurse Jackie S 
Quick Silver S 
Rain Check S 
Rain Delay S 
Respect T 
Reunion S 
Side Dish T 
Smallville S 
Spooked S 
Summer Nights S 
Thunderhead S 
Weeds S 

Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,800'
Location: 40.0025, -105.3974 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,509
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 2, 2003  with updates from Baumer and 2 more
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Shot from the top of Happy Hour Crag Sept. 2011. I...

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  • Description 

    There are a few rock buttresses nearly directly across the stream from the Bihedral that had been climbed off and on for years. Around 2009, some folks have decided to rename this to Cascade Crag.

    Lying in the shade and North-facing, these buttresses provide temperature relief in the midst of a steamy summer in the canyon. It can be 20 degrees cooler here.

    A brief hop across the stream (or a tyrolean crossing downstream) and a short wander up a short slope lead you to a couple buttresses flanking a small drainage that can contain some WI2- ice in the winter.

    In 2009, a scouring of the face of most of the lichen and bushes and the addition of bolts has completely changed the appearance of this crag. Now, at least 21 additional bolt lines or variations have been packed in here. It can be VERY confusing as to what bolts belong to which lines at times due to the close proximity of these bolts. Also, retrobolting has altered some of the original lines. This is no longer a quiet crag, and top ropes can cover this small crag on busy weekends.

    L->R: (in progress)

    A. Side Dish, 9, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
    B. Hustle, 10, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
    C. Loyalty, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
    D. Ed's Corner aka Respect, 10-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts. Retrobolted.
    E1. Full Respect, 11-?, 1p, 90', bolts.
    E2. Rain Delay, 11-?, 1p, 90', bolts
    GF. Firestarter, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts (black hangers).
    HG. Fire and Rain, 10+, 1p, 90', (beige hangers).
    I. Spooked, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts
    J1. Rain Check, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts.
    J2. Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, 9- R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted with J1.
    K. Lightning Strike, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
    L. Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun, 9 R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted.
    M variations, 7-9, 1p, 85-105', bolts & gear.
    N. Friends, 8, 2p, 100', bolts & gear. 2 finishes?

    Northwest aspect

    O1. Friends, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.
    O2. Reunion, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
    P1. Summer Nights, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
    P2. Quick Silver, 10+, 1p, 1p, 70', bolts.
    P3. Erika, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
    Q. Thunderhead, 10, 1p, 70' or 85', bolts.
    R. Smallville, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
    SR. Californication, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
    T. Weeds, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
    U. Nurse Jackie, 5, 1p, 45' or 65', bolts.
    V. Dexter, 3, 1p, 45' or 65', bolt(s) & gear.

    There are 3 more crags above this crag....

    Getting There 

    Approximately 7 miles up canyon from the Elephant Buttresses lies a pulloff on the S side of the road with a large sized tree. This pulloff is also used for the Bihedral and sometimes for the Truth or Consequences crags. It is easily spied from the Bihedral/Riviera. It lies somewhat blocked from view by trees near its base.

    The crag is reached by fording the stream and angling SE for a few minutes. It appears that some beaver-like folks have created a rock crossing.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.4 miles from here

    24 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',9],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag:
    Friends   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   
    Reunion   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
    Rain Check   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Loyalty   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Firestarter   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Spooked   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Respect   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Thunderhead   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Quick Silver   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Rain Delay   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Fire and Rain   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Lightning Strike   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Full Respect   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

    Featured Route For Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
    Rock Climbing Photo: This was back when bolts were not on the crag. It ...

    Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak...
    Find a short, left-facing dihedral of easy difficulty. Head up. Climb a short right-facing dihedral. From here there are 2 options, straight over a little roof 5.10 R or traverse right 8 feet and back left above. Then angle up and right. You could join Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) finish or angle right across slabs (crux) with marginal protection until you are under a small overlap/roof. Traverse right and up and finally you are there. Hmmm. Not sure it's worth a star, but it was lead ground-up and mad...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on what I believe is Fire and Rain...
    Unknown climber on what I believe is Fire and Rain...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbin' at Cascade Crag.
    Climbin' at Cascade Crag.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Broken tyrolean tree stand, 7/12/12.
    BETA PHOTO: Broken tyrolean tree stand, 7/12/12.

    Comments on Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 21, 2017
    By Mandy Frazier
    Jul 2, 2017
    CONDITION REPORT 
    I was here last Monday, June 26th and two high-school-aged-looking-guys left their guidebook. If this is you, message me.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 16, 2003
    I've used this pullout to park for the "Inca Stone" in the past.
    By rob bauer
    From: Golden, CO
    Jul 11, 2010
    I was there today. The creator was there; he gave us the 2 minute tour. Most of the climbs were 50 to 80 feet long. It was shady and busy. I found it a bit confusing since climbs are close, but nothing is desperate, so it didn't make much difference. Every route I did had some good moves and I had a lot of fun. (Everyone there was having fun.) Maybe we should get the names listed, so it's less confusing? The longest route there was a right-trending trad route starting just rt of the 3rd bolted line from the left, in a rt-facing dihedral.
    By pat thompson
    From: superior
    Oct 15, 2011
    Amen Ed- I have been to this crag 3 times this year and had a blast each time. It is nice to have another summer crag like this one that is easy to get to and has many moderates for my son and his friends!!!
    Thanks to whomever the so called "energized bolters" are as I know that you put in a ton of hard work on this once was mossy and chossy pile o'doody. Cheers-Pat and Family
    By Scott McMahon
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 12, 2012
    FYI, the tree stand for the tyrolean is broken (7/12/12). Also, there is a death block to the right of Reunion that is quite loose.
    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 3, 2012
    Nice crag; good rock; fun and shady. Better than I expected after the negative vibes and retrobolting complaints in the description. Ok, some of the lines are close together and initially hard to read which route is which. And there are a few stray bolts that don't make much sense. But the "retrobolting" I saw was largely protecting face climbing that otherwise would be unprotected runout in the trad routes.
    By Joshinator
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Sep 6, 2012
    Pretty decent crag with fun climbs. Deserves a better page than this. Drop all the "unknown" stuff. Maybe MP needs to get off its high horse.
    By Jason Watts
    From: Boulder,CO
    May 11, 2013
    The broken Tyrolean "treestand" is laying on the ground now, which makes the landing consist of 2 limbs (one broken) and 2 ropes. While it isn't a big deal going into the crag, the return trip might be a little sketchy for a non-climber type. Something to keep in mind if you plan on going to this nice "beginner" crag.

    I would be willing to help someone figure out a way to get a platform back out there as this traverse serves a couple great crags.
    By goingUp
    From: over here
    Jun 11, 2013
    Although the tree stand is still "broken", the climb down is simple: there is a rope there and still two good 'step limbs'. We hauled a dog over there today and easily passed/lowered her. Decent climbs, good texture on the rock, most cruxes seem to have "tricky" feet.
    By Jim Fox
    From: Westminster, CO
    Sep 4, 2014
    Does anyone know of a decent guide book or other resouce for this crag? D'Antonio's book shows a vague photo (but good descriptions), and the MP site is uncharacteristically lacking in good beta photos.
    There are bolts all over the place on this crag, & I find it difficult to sort out the routes....
    By Brad Gone
    Jun 25, 2015
    Big thanks to the folks who put up the Mussy hooks at this crag!
    By Jon Banks
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 21, 2015
    There are way too many bolts at this crag. Routes are crowded and run into each other, and there are a gazillion variations on every route, which makes for a confusing day climbing. It's in the shade though, so that's really nice.
    By DavidS
    Nov 12, 2016
    Lost a 70m blue bi-pattern rope at Cascade Crag on Friday, November 11th, message me if any one found it. $50 reward if found.
    By Eliot Quon
    May 21, 2017
    Does anyone know about any massive rock fall that took place here on Sunday, May 21, 2017? A number of other climbers and I at the upper and lower Bihedral areas were alerted by a bloodcurling "ROCK!" scream (which sounded more like someone falling from the rock) and witnessed what must have been school-bus-sized (or larger) chunks of rockfall from the top of the buttress. Hopefully no one was injured! If this is the right crag, then climbers should take note that some routes and the area may be significantly altered.

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