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Genetic Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acromegaly T 
Certified Non-GMO T 
Genetic Continuity S 
Genetic Drift S 
Heirloom T 
Spicy Heirloom T 
Tyrannosaurus Runt T 

Acromegaly 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Derek Field (Jan 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Sun-drenched from mid-morning thru late afternoon
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: Derek Field on Feb 27, 2017

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Acromegaly viewed from the gully below Devils Thum...

Description 

Stock up on 5" cams to defeat this mutant on the Genetic Wall. It's a staircase offwidth sun-drenched from mid-morning onward, perched nicely above Sedona-ville.

The route starts with a couple bomber fist jams to get to the first ledge, then it's all 5" (and wider) to the top. Solid arm-barring supplemented by oodles of face holds on the left wall, good ol blue-collar fun. Peer into the crack periodically and notice that it extends exceptionally deep into the rock formation, like some kind of eerie corridor. The pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor below an ugly roof.

Location 

This striking wide crack is found in the drainage just below Devils Thumb, on the far southern end of Genetic Wall. It starts at a large tree on the main ledge system halfway up the wall. From the two sport routes (Genetic Continuity and Genetic Drift), scramble to the right around the corner, up the gully a short ways until you see this thing. Very obvious wide crack.

Good to belay from the big tree because there's about 15-20 feet of 4th-class choss-tossing to get into the crack itself.

Protection 

1-2x #4
3-4x #5
1x #6
(new BD sizes)


Photos of Acromegaly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Acromegaly from the approach gully.
Looking up Acromegaly from the approach gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: Acromegaly; anchor chains visible.
Acromegaly; anchor chains visible.

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