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El Segundo Piso
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Unknown (Right Dihedral) T 
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Acrofobia 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Jan 21, 2017

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Armando Dattoli climbing the steep upper face of A...

Description 

Another classic testpiece at La Coconetla, also a little tricky to protect like the neighboring La Paloma, but with a stiffer grade and a little more sustained. It was originally rated around 5.10c, before the bolts on the upper face were added to make it a direct line to the top (it used to join back to La Paloma after the 2nd crux).

There are two different starts to this route (both equally fun):

1) Start as for La Paloma and continue up the chimney to the top of the pillar.

2) Start as for Kukus Clan and follow the dihedral to the top of the pillar.

Once at the ledge on top of the pillar, you'll find a shallow right facing dihedral with a thin finger crack, follow that, doing a couple airy moves to pass a small roof/bulge (1st crux). The crack ends once over the roof and you should continue straight up a vertical face, passing 3 bolts via a non-obvious sequence on tiny crimps (2nd crux, sustained) till you reach the anchors.

Location 

This route is located on the cliff's second tier, about 30 feet above the 1st-pitch anchor of Las Gamuzas. A short 4th Class scramble on ledges will get you there. Find a finger crack that splits an almost vertical face with a small roof at its top.

Bring an extra rope to rappel the route (a doubled 70m rope won't reach the starting ledge). Alternatively, you can traverse a few meters to the right and rappel (w/ a single rope) from the chains at the top of Xochipili to the rap station at the big ledge on top of Kukus Clan and Viaje Magico (do another rappel from there to reach the starting ledge).

Protection 

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot (doubles on the finger sizes), nuts and a few quickdraws.


Photos of Acrofobia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Armando Dattoli climbing the 1st crux roof of Acro...
Armando Dattoli climbing the 1st crux roof of Acro...

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