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The Noir Boulder
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Crack Problem, The 
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Shake Junt 
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Way of the Samurai 


Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Seth Carter
Page Views: 824
Submitted By: r. tyler gross on Apr 17, 2014

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Me, on opening moves of ACL. Getting your feet est...


Again, had to pick a grade it is a requirement. This is hard to know for this line as it has only seen one ascent that I know of. Just left of Shake joint, start on down pulling hole. Cross left hand to two finger slopey pocket and out to gaston. Head straight up the arete-like feature on bad slopers and find your way out.



Photos of A.C.L. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber here is on Shake Joint. Red line indicates...
Climber here is on Shake Joint. Red line indicates...

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By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jun 13, 2014
rating: V9-10 7C+

So it turns out that perhaps Bernd WASN'T the first ascentionist. We went to the Noir Boulder together and while he did recognize doing lines like Shake Junt, ACL didn't jog his memory. So Seth probably nabbed first crank.

Anyhoo, Bernd and I put this one down this last Thursday night, on a cool June evening. Awesome sesh, and very memorable. I spent about three sessions working the problem, then sent on the fourth, with good conditions and fresh tips. I'm not terribly confident in grading this problem, but I will say that good technique will get you much further than brute strength. The moves are surprisingly subtle for how burly they are. Probably V10, but maybe at the easier end of the grade.

Impressive footnote: Bernd sent on his third attempt (with a complete beta-spraydown courtesy of me).

By the way, don't even think about trying this problem if you aren't solid in the two-finger department.
By Duke Lettieri
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 30, 2016
rating: V9-10 7C+

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