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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Hesitantly Decisive T 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Acid Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: George Bracksieck and Patti Smith
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 29, 2013

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At the start of the main crack.

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  • Description 

    This is a fun crack, mostly hands and big hands, that goes through a small overhang near the bottom. George Bracksieck thought it was about 5.9, but it is definitely harder. He climbed it in 1975, so maybe opinions have changed. If it was longer, it would be classic. It is fun though.


    This is the crack to the right of Case of the Fags. You start with the first three bolts of It's Time for Change, going to a large ledge. From the ledge, go up another crack on the right to a small ledge at the start of the main crack. To get down, climb down to the anchors on Left-Handed Tool. It is best to belay at the top of the climb itself.


    Bring a rack with some large cams. We used two #4 Camalots and 2 #3 Camalots. We used some smaller cams as well but no nuts. I think the smallest cam needed is a #1 Camalot. The anchor can be made with #2 Camalots and maybe a #1.

    Photos of Acid Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The big crack in the photo's center.
    BETA PHOTO: The big crack in the photo's center.

    Comments on Acid Crack Add Comment
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    By Kevin P
    From: Loveland
    Mar 29, 2013

    This doesn't see a lot of traffic, so the crack is pretty hard on the hands. I lost a considerable amount of my epidermis. I would recommend tape.
    By George Bracksieck
    Feb 15, 2014

    I led Patti Smith up this on May 16, 1975. We climbed the easy gully/crack system below it, to get to the main ledge. We called the crack "Acid Crack," because we, later that day, climbed what we thought was "Acid Rock," which was in the 1972 guidebook "5.10," written by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson. Whatever we climbed was to the right of AC and to the left of the Bihedral route. We, as it turns out, didn't climb anywhere near "Acid Rock." Instead, we climbed what would later be named "Sun Spot."

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