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Acid Baby T 
Valkyrie, The T 

Acid Baby 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Layton, Dan Cappellini, Rolf Larson (July 2005)
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 8,132
Submitted By: Shaun Johnson on Jan 10, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Exposure at the top of the climb.

Description 

Acid Baby is one of the finest alpine rock climbs in the Stuart Range. Providing seven pitches of traditionally protected climbing on amazing rock, This is a trip you will never forget. Not only is Acid Baby one of the only 5.10s in the range, with the exeption on its neighbor the Valkary; it is quite sustained with the easiest pitches being 5.9. Add in one of the longest weather windows, and being located in an incredibly scenic part of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness; and what do you get? An unforgettable trip.

Location 

2/3 up Aasgard Pass on the east side.

Protection 

I suggest bringing a double rack from blue alien to #3 Camalot and a set of wired stoppers. All the pitches on my topo above can be done with a 60 meter rope.


Photos of Acid Baby Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Phin high on Acid, Baby!
Phin high on Acid, Baby!
Rock Climbing Photo: On the final fin traverse to the top of Aasgard Se...
BETA PHOTO: On the final fin traverse to the top of Aasgard Se...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Janet on top of Aasgard Sentinel. Both Acid Baby a...
BETA PHOTO: Janet on top of Aasgard Sentinel. Both Acid Baby a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Will on the fun 5.8 hand crack around the roof wit...
Will on the fun 5.8 hand crack around the roof wit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Janet on top of Aasgard Sentinel. Both Acid Baby a...
BETA PHOTO: Janet on top of Aasgard Sentinel. Both Acid Baby a...
Rock Climbing Photo: P3
BETA PHOTO: P3
Rock Climbing Photo: P1
BETA PHOTO: P1
Rock Climbing Photo: P4-P6
BETA PHOTO: P4-P6
Rock Climbing Photo: This was taken from just below the 5.6 downclimb f...
BETA PHOTO: This was taken from just below the 5.6 downclimb f...
Rock Climbing Photo: ridge
ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt in the Thin crux of p4
Matt in the Thin crux of p4
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt in the stellar position on p6
Matt in the stellar position on p6
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt heading up P3. We took the left variation up ...
BETA PHOTO: Matt heading up P3. We took the left variation up ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Following pitch 6.
Following pitch 6.
Rock Climbing Photo: Loren Foss after a thin crack crux.
Loren Foss after a thin crack crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7. Very exposed ridge.
Pitch 7. Very exposed ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: florian
florian
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch of Acid Baby. Awesome 5.9+ corner!...
The first pitch of Acid Baby. Awesome 5.9+ corner!...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Down P5
Looking Down P5
Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere in the middle of the trip.
Somewhere in the middle of the trip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a break in the late afternoon sun from desc...
BETA PHOTO: Taking a break in the late afternoon sun from desc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on the magnificent final pitch
Paul on the magnificent final pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: the physical
the physical

Show All 27 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Acid Baby Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is fun alpine with some pretty great cracks and spectacular perspectives of dragontail, colchuck, stuart, Daniel, etc..

Route is mostly 5.9 to 5.10b (sustained) with about a 10 foot section of 10d about midway on P4 after exiting the 5.8 crack. Gear to 3 inch is fine. We brought a #4 and didn’t need it. Walk off is easy/nice, and rounds out the alpine adventure though would be more challenging with snow.

Safety notes: (1) There are a lot of loose rocks/blocks throughout the route, especially on P3 (tiptoe through the corner!) and the top of the offwidth on P6. (2) P7 pitch -if you blow it, the rope is running over a very sharp edge-though it’s easy. Think about it, and you can make it safe.

P6 note: My partner decided to climb the layback up most of the “finger” on P6 after the slab. This was fun. It deposits you right on the final ridge.
By Ashort
From: Tacoma, WA
Aug 24, 2015

Great route, sustained, fun climbing.

Pitch 3 definitely has some loose blocks, but there is an especially dangerous toaster oven sized block that will go at the slightest touch. It can be climbed around, but if it let loose it will likely hit your belayer. It is about 5 meters below where you start traversing right under the roof.
By Brian Ladd
From: Bend, Oregon
Sep 1, 2015

Super rad route. Finding was difficult as we kept thinking it was lower on the pass. Hike way up the pass until you think you are too far up and you will see it on the left.
Only notes are the death blocks on pitch 3 and 5. Would have loved to clean but the pass hiking trail is right below the route. If anyone if ever up there when nobody is hiking the pass it may be a good idea to lose a few of those blocks. They are one finger loose and weigh hundreds of pounds.
Pitches often 10-20 meters short of the map description. Walk-off descent fairly easy. Once you go past the summit ridge go down the second gully to the right (not rap gully with tree). Billy goat down and to always trend left and it becomes obvious.
We ended up using the 4" quite a bit.
By Jaddles
Mar 6, 2017

Great route - doable as a car to car mission. For more info see link to my trip report jadelittlewood.wordpress.com/2...
By Matthew Tangeman
Jun 23, 2017

With a 70m rope and some long slings, P5 and P6 (or 4 and 5, depending on how you do it) can be linked. P6 is a very short pitch otherwise.

Also thought P6 (or P5, 5.10-) was the easiest pitch on the climb. Felt closer to 5.8 than 5.10.

The crux of the 5.9 corner to traverse pitch (2 or 3) is not pulling off any number of flakes down onto your belayer. Chimneying the corner is probably the easiest way to avoid yarding on all the choss. Careful where you place your gear!

Classic route! I had a goat waiting for me at the very end of the knife edge just after the downclimb, he wasn't afraid and wasn't gonna let me climb down and build a belay, either...
By AlecBerg
Jul 12, 2017

Amazing route! Definitely worth doing in a day if you are a solid 5.10 leader. One note, the guide book says to link the first 5.9 portion with the upper corner, if you do make sure to save a #2, #3 and #4 for the upper 5.10 crack. Makes it easy to plug and chug
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Aug 28, 2017

Great route with an exciting finish. Makes a nice shortcut over to Prusik if you're into really big days.

I'm not sure about the recommendation on P1 to link the 5.9 first section into the 5.10 corner above, especially if climbing near your limit. There is a large ledge at the base of the 5.10 corner that would make an easy belay. With over 30m of rope out when linking this, I felt like a ledge fall was a real possibility until a good ways up the corner.

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