REI Community
Aces High Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aces High T 
Feelio's Lament T 
Man on the Edge T 
Ruby T 

Aces High 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips, Nate Brown P1&P2, Tyler Phillips, Mike Tea P3&P4 FA of Sub Summit TP & PC crew 2008
Season: Summer
Page Views: 2,685
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Sep 25, 2014  with updates from Craig Martin

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Alternate 4th pitch goes straight up face.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1- Climb the north facing short corner moving right into an open book. Shuffle right again to gain a good ledge and two bolt belay. 5.9 100ft.

P2- Climb up and right in the shallow dihedral, the rock becomes a bit loose but the climbing is easy. Jump the gap if continuing up or belay from 2 bolt anchor. 5.8 90ft.

P3- On the right side of the "step" climb up crack features on vertical rock passing a fixed pin. Belay at two bolts or walk back and make a belay 5.7+ 60ft.

P4- Find the fixed pin on the left side of the "Step", ramble up the arete making some fun moves. Belay at the 2 bolts or walk back and make a belay. 5.7+ 40ft

P5- 3rd class slope 400ft

P6- This is the southern sub summit of Hayden. Find the right facing corner, climb up this to a small ledge clip the pin and pad to the summit. 5.6 45ft.

Walking off P3-P6 is an option, take the gully to the south. Alternatively you can rap each section, except the sub summit, which is a downclimb on the north east corner.

Location 

Located 200ft south from the main Iron Hayden Wall. Look for the obvious tower. Approach from the base of the Iron Hayden Wall hike to the right and up aiming for the right side of the tower formation in the gully to the south of Iron Hayden Wall. Some scrambling will be required to gain the large ledge below the tower.

Protection 

Rack to #3 camalot, slings


Photos of Aces High Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 6 (final pitch). Original line is red (I thi...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 6 (final pitch). Original line is red (I thi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3. Left (yellow) line is the variation. Righ...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3. Left (yellow) line is the variation. Righ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fixed? piton on alternate 4th pitch.
Fixed? piton on alternate 4th pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch variation.
3rd pitch variation.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Aces High.
Start of Aces High.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Might Mike Tea on the 4th pitch FA.
The Might Mike Tea on the 4th pitch FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch FA
BETA PHOTO: 3rd pitch FA
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Aces High. The route takes the obviou...
BETA PHOTO: The start of Aces High. The route takes the obviou...

Comments on Aces High Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tea
Sep 26, 2014

Fun Route. Fun Position. Go have some fun.
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Sep 30, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good approach to Aces High Tower is to climb Killers and traverse south.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 14, 2016

I really enjoyed this route. The first two pitches were the best, and then I felt like each subsequent pitch was less good than the one before it. All were fun, though. Three stars for the climbing and one extra star for the location and overall adventure. Why not?

The pitch ratings seemed about right to me. We moved the belay 50 feet back from the top of pitch 2 to the base of pitch 3. We climbed up the middle of the pitch 3 block instead of up the right side. And we went straight up on pitch 4 (to the piton) instead of up the left arete. This was harder than it looked, but still 5.7+ish I guess. Both of these variations to what's described in the beta above just looked more natural and seemed to make more sense.

We weren't quite sure which of the several crack systems on the little sub-summit of the final pitch was the one described in the description. We went up the slot-like one on the left side. This arched right and met up with the ledge/piton as described. In hindsight, I think that the FA team probably climbed the crack system that starts just left of a large roof and goes straight up?

From the top of the little sub-summit, we downclimbed the northeast side and then went to the main summit of Hayden, bypassing the large cliffs by finding a short 4th/5th class chimney on the right/east. Great views from the top. We could see the entire Wasatch crest from Willard and Ben Lomond in the north to Nebo in the south. Then we walked back down to the top of pitch 4 and rapped the route. The anchors all looked good, and the rappelling was quick and straightforward.

If you don't want to climb Killers, the best (IMO) way to approach the base of the route is to scramble up the gully (3rd/4th class) on the right side of the formation. See this photo for the approach options.

For reference, here's how long it took us:

0:00 – Left parking lot
1:00 – At base of Iron Hayden
1:15 – Started climbing
4:45 – Topped out on sub-summit
5:24 – Topped out on main Hayden Peak summit

And then it took us 2.5 more hours to get back to the parking lot from the main summit.
By john bald
Jul 17, 2016

Tristan, thanks for adding the photos! Thought that P3 needed clarification.

Killers was the way to go. Quality pitch.

P3 Per your pic, started on yellow and finished on red. Two pins fixed on upper half.

P4 Obvious center crack w/pin 5.8

Encountered wildlife near the top of the climb.
Wonderful outing!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About