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Aces High 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pat Flemming,Luke Kretschmar 1998 ground up
Page Views: 836
Submitted By: ShanJ2me on Apr 28, 2014

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Aces High

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Description 

One of my favorite routes in The Hills! A Ballancy face start leads to a small left facing dihedral. Pull a small roof at the top of the dihedral and traverse right about 10 feet (take care-not protectable-but easy) to gain a beautiful splitter finger to hand to large hand crack! Multiple Cruxes just above the first bolt,at roof of dihedral and midway up the crack.

Location 

On the Political Gamblers Wall-Look for the 2 bolt start leading to a left facing dihedral. Rapel from Two bolt Chain anchors one 70M rope

Protection 

2 bolts low. then Look for the crystal placement just made for a .5 Camalot! sling your gear at the traverse to avoid rope drag! this route takes amazing gear. One set of stoppers-.3 to #3 Camalots. Doubles 1-3 if you want to sew it up. Bolted Chain Anchors at top left.


Photos of Aces High Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A Black Hills Splitter-top half of Aces High
A Black Hills Splitter-top half of Aces High

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