Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: Kathy Kocon and Mark Leonard
Page Views: 2,668 total · 14/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Sep 4, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Description Suggest change

Approach as for rappelling to Yucca Flower Tower. See directions there for finding the rap station for Aces and Eights.

Rap 180 feet to a small ledge, and build a belay. If you instead end the rap lower at a dirt stance in the gully itself, this can add about 20 feet of stiff climbing just left of the gully where pro may be scant (we only top roped).

Assuming a higher stop than the dirt spot in the gully, the route starts up a moderate left facing dihedral with a hand crack and a few face moves here and there with good movement qualities on the entire climb. It is a little dirty and loose in a few spots, but it is worth doing. The crux is about 2/3 of the way up and the grade remains consistent for the entire route.

Location Suggest change

The 2 bolt chained anchor for this route is located about 15 yards south of The Great Escape anchors.

Protection Suggest change

2-60 meter ropes, stoppers, double cams from 3/8"-3", 15-24" runners, and a cordellette.

Photos

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