Ace in the Hole
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Ace in the Hole (aka the original Green Goblin)
This new route starts on Green Goblin and then veers right. Traverse on big ledges right, to the brief crux section, leaning off a wonderful sidepull rail and stepping up to more jugs. The rest is simple but still fun.
The consensus rating seems to be 5.10a right now, but it felt easier to me than its nearby neighbor First Normal Form 5.9+.
Start on Green Goblin 5.8, but follow the right bolt line.
Jon traverses right after the 1st bolt to get onto...
reaching out for the second clip into the traverse...
BETA PHOTO: Ace in the hole breaks right after first bolt of G...
Mar 9, 2015
You can climb this line direct instead of starting Green Goblin and then traversing. Starts with very high crimp, high feet onto another deadpoint crimp. It finally eases once you reach the horizontal hand jam. I guess the route starts at 11+. Whoever bolts out there...this line is asking for a bolt below the horizontal. A stick clip will protect the cruxy start and boom, you have another 11+ route that is consistent with Circus Wall.