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Unsorted Routes:

Ace in the Hole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 758
Submitted By: Mike Cohen on Nov 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Ace in the Hole (aka the original Green Goblin)

Description 

This new route starts on Green Goblin and then veers right. Traverse on big ledges right, to the brief crux section, leaning off a wonderful sidepull rail and stepping up to more jugs. The rest is simple but still fun.

The consensus rating seems to be 5.10a right now, but it felt easier to me than its nearby neighbor First Normal Form 5.9+.

Location 

Start on Green Goblin 5.8, but follow the right bolt line.

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of Ace in the Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: post crux jug bash out
post crux jug bash out
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon traverses right after the 1st bolt to get onto...
Jon traverses right after the 1st bolt to get onto...
Rock Climbing Photo: reaching out for the second clip into the traverse...
reaching out for the second clip into the traverse...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ace in the hole breaks right after first bolt of G...
BETA PHOTO: Ace in the hole breaks right after first bolt of G...

Comments on Ace in the Hole Add Comment
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By APasquel
Mar 9, 2015

You can climb this line direct instead of starting Green Goblin and then traversing. Starts with very high crimp, high feet onto another deadpoint crimp. It finally eases once you reach the horizontal hand jam. I guess the route starts at 11+. Whoever bolts out there...this line is asking for a bolt below the horizontal. A stick clip will protect the cruxy start and boom, you have another 11+ route that is consistent with Circus Wall.

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