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Ace in the Hole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, 1997.
Page Views: 7,923
Submitted By: Shaun Miller on Jan 1, 2001

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Climb up the gully a few feet to the first bolt. Work your way onto the leaning arete and continue up and right. Move up the face to the crux (after the 5th bolt)and finish at the two bolt anchor. This is a fun route for leaders just getting into 5.10s.


Only QDs needed. 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos of Ace in the Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Using leg leverage to stabilize while grabbing a q...
Using leg leverage to stabilize while grabbing a q...
Rock Climbing Photo: Margherita on Ace in the Hole.
Margherita on Ace in the Hole.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken in the exposure, and lookin good doin it.
Taken in the exposure, and lookin good doin it.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st day climbing outdoors
1st day climbing outdoors
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the warm weather in February.
Enjoying the warm weather in February.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pony Up & Poker Face on the face to the left of th...
BETA PHOTO: Pony Up & Poker Face on the face to the left of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Forshay climbing Ace in the Hole. Photo by Mo...
Mike Forshay climbing Ace in the Hole. Photo by Mo...

Comments on Ace in the Hole Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2015
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

If you're just getting into the 10s, wear a helmet. The 1st 3-4 bolts leave you with grey matter splatter potential on that slab to your right. Nobody likes smearing over your grey.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 11, 2002

Ratings are, by definition, subjective, but just to put in my two cents--I think this route is more fun and slightly easier than The 5th of July. I'd give it 5.9****. Side note: I'm 6'1" - 200lbs...which biases my perspective. --Excellent work on this crag, Richard!
By Wendie
Jun 25, 2002

Really fun climb if you're looking to get into leading 10's!! Shorter than 5th of July, and if you stay right it's easier than 10a. Stay under the clips until right below the 3rd bolt & it will be easier, too. If you move onto the face earlier, you're going to have a bit of trouble.
By shad O'Neel
Jul 23, 2002

This one was harder than the 5th of July, in my humble opinion, but I liked it even better! I'm never sure how a 5.7 leader like me can make it up these routes, but damn they are fun!!
By Guppy
Apr 25, 2003

If anyone reads this, let me know the name of the climb two to the right of Ace In The Hole. Anyway, SICK picture Morgan.
By SurlyClimber
Mar 6, 2006

This is a nice climb that deserves more stars, particularly if 5th of July is rated at 4.5 stars. This climb is not much harder than 5th but you have to think a bit more at a couple of spots.
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jun 18, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this and 5th on our way to the Wall of Justice. For all the spray that 5th gets, I thought this route was much more fun; cool pockets and pleasant moves. =)
By jcntrl
From: Smoulder, CO
Jun 27, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It may be a little bit easier to move onto the face from the gully if you step over at or above the second bolt, but why? It is quite fun moving over from just at, or just below the first bolt after an easy clip, so don't cheat yourself of that pleasure and just commit! The handholds are pretty positive there, though they do require the leader a moment of airborne feet. Perhaps that was just me having fun with it. :) The moves above that are a slightly tricky, but those are the business and part of what makes this route 5.10.

Overall the route is fairly straightforward for a 10, probably good for aspiring 10 leaders yet still worthwhile (fun) for those solid at the grade.
By danma
From: Portland, Oregon
Aug 29, 2011

Just did this today. Very enjoyable indeed. I have to agree though that it was either on par with the "5th of July" or slightly easier. The route had more variety than the 5th and in fact right where the two routes almost converge in the middle The Ace feels very much the same as the 5th. I think I liked this route a bit more than the 5th due to a little more variety.
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
May 18, 2012

Personally, I liked this route more than 5ht of July on the "fun" scale. If you are new 5.10 leader, you'll find it interesting to select your moves but with options all the time. I lead 5.10a/b at the time of writing this (mainly Boulder Canyon ratings), and found it pretty easy (not scary). I highly recommend it!
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 10, 2013

In October, Dale Haas and I replaced the old hardware at the anchor with quick links and rappel rings. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association ( They appreciate your support.
By Jason Platt
Jul 14, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route and the 5th are simply classic face climbs. The moves are continuous and fun on amazing rock. I personally might have liked this route a bit more, since there was a larger variety of moves and holds. Either way though, make sure you look around when you get to the top. It's one of the best views in CCC.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 24, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I lost my wedding ring somewhere at the bottom of this route. If you find it, please contact me, because it would mean a lot to have it back.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Oct 17, 2015

In June 2015, Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor hardware with SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA - provided the hardware. Support them if you can!

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