Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Accident report - indian creek
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
I was climbing Fingers in a Lightsocket yesterday 9/8/16. Supercrack buttress, Indian creek. I have climbed it before and knew what to expect. Yesterday I was at the crux, where the route slopes back and there are two pin scars that you must hit one after the other. My left tips were locked in the lower scar, and my right tips were in the upper scar. I had a red C3 at my feet. My feet slipped and i shockloaded my tips which blew out of the scars. The red C3 got shock loaded and popped out as well as the piece below it. My 0.3 X4 held about 10-12 feet down.

I felt fine overall but when i looked down at my left hand I was missing my pinky and ringfinger ends. (The ringfinger tip is still in the pin scar...) They were bleeding a lot and the base of the climb is now covered in blood. My friends wrapped my finger in a bandana and we went to the hospital. I find out if i need surgery on Friday. My friend cleaned the gear up to the 0.3 and we booked it out of there.

Analysis: were there any red flags i missed? any glaring mistakes made? 1. I didnt quite have the right gear. For small gear in sandstone it is critical that your pieces are not undercammed. If you want to be the safest they should almost be overcammed. I remember wanting more 0.3s at the top but i didnt have anymore because I placed them lower and the red C3 was my biggest piece. I didnt read the guide book for gear suggestion because i had climbed it before and assumed i knew what i needed.

SO...if anyone up there climbs it please get my finger! Just kidding. But seriously, the 0.3 X4 saved my life and has some sentimental value...if you get it could you please return it to me? I can offer you beers and karma. I will be going from GJ to SLC in a few days.
Rock Climbing Photo: tips
tips
grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and my Fetish I guess.. ;)
Wow man. Glad to hear you didn't ground and wishing you a quick recovery.

What's the prognosis on your finger? When you say " I find out if i need surgery on Friday." do you mean a 2nd surgery for circulation, etc?
Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Joined Sep 13, 2006
1,169 points
Administrator
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rock...
Wow! Looks like you sliced your finger tips clean off.. YIKES! That had to hurt like all get up! Very sorry you had this happen. The crack edge you were finger jamming must have been quite sharp to cause such damage. Looks like the surgery will be reconstruction. Burt Lindquist
From Madison, WI
Joined Jan 1, 2002
3,613 points
Sep 8, 2016
OH man! I wish you a speedy recovery! D-Roc
Joined Jun 3, 2013
159 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: REtro
Wow. Started reading and thought for sure it was a troll job. Scrolled down and saw pic. Yikes. My worst nightmare come true. Hope you have a speedy recovery. R. Moran
From Moab , UT
Joined Mar 18, 2009
144 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Millennium Traverse, 5.10: Reimers' Ranch
Ahhhh! dude, that is really crazy.
wow.
Nathan Self
From Louisiana
Joined Mar 5, 2012
100 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: wiped
nasty! hope you make a decent recovery. Jake wander
Joined Aug 11, 2014
168 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: I pity the fool
wow. Just. wow. Ray Lovestead
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 9, 2008
142 points
Sep 8, 2016
Daaamn. I hope you heal and recover as well as possible..

The dangers of lead falls are often forgotten. Even if you gear is good plenty of bad shit can still happen.

If you are at all squeamish don't look up what has happened to people who have worn rings on their fingers while climbing.
patto
Joined Jul 9, 2012
25 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: We shall continue with style
Holy Shit Grog! ...+vibes! my friend and I just did a climb where we were talking about that happening, if you blew the move on a certain hold. We both were like ...nah, you'll get your fingers out.... knot BigB
From Red Rock, NV
Joined Feb 18, 2015
311 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
This reminds me of an accident report written up in a Climbing Magazine's Epic issue. Some guy lost a finger falling on the Yellow Spur in Eldo. Same exact deal. Ugh! This is just a risk of finger jamming from what it sounds like. You fall, you could lose them. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,669 points
Sep 8, 2016
Pretty cool you can keep a positive attitude / sense of humor after getting your tips ripped off like that just yesterday. Feel like it would take me some time to get to that point. Hope you have a quick and easy recovery! grassisstabby
Joined Aug 12, 2016
0 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Castleton North Chimney
Good for you to give some! Best of luck on the recovery Mannamedstan
From Carpinteria, CA
Joined Apr 29, 2013
41 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Moss
Rock Climbing Photo: Gnarly
Gnarly




Wow. Best wishes on a speedy recovery!
Jason Todd
From Cody, WY
Joined Apr 21, 2012
712 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Millennium Traverse, 5.10: Reimers' Ranch
Bionic opportunity?
Rock Climbing Photo: bionic commando
bionic commando
Nathan Self
From Louisiana
Joined Mar 5, 2012
100 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Lady H
Grog, I think the fingertips were gone as soon as they had your full weight, so an accident. Could you have avoided it? Yeah, never fall. Yeah, don't climb. Probably not gonna happen, eh?

I'm guessing if your cam isn't fetched pronto by someone, you will get gifted a cam or two. Good people on here when it matters.

For what it's worth, my dad lost his two middle fingers on his right hand. Shot off in WWII. If you hold up your arm in a pistol shooting stance, you will realize why he celebrated that day as a second birthday ever after. He got a small disability check ever after from the gov too, but evveerrryy year, he had to go to the doc to verify he still had the disability. You guessed it: fill in a form saying "no, they did not grow back". :-D

So, so glad you are still with us! Best, Helen

Fingers in a Light socket!!! Dang!!!
Old lady H
From Boise, Idaho
Joined Aug 24, 2015
61 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Julie Ellison
Holy shit! Trevor.
From Boise, ID
Joined Apr 16, 2012
727 points
Administrator
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter the Colossus
Holy crap... heal fast and good luck with the recovery bro. GNARLY

I'm really surprised its the tip and not from the knuckle...not sure i get how that happens and never thought that could happen... so damn.
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,902 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: monster rock
Best wishes on a speedy recovery bud! Thanks for sharing and for having a good outlook in a not so good scenario. Inspiring

DC
Dylan Carey
From TX
Joined Oct 5, 2012
167 points
Sep 8, 2016
WOW!

So sorry you had to experience the darkest side of a solid lock. Glad to hear you are alive. I wish you the best and hope you keep your positive attitude and recover fast.
climb 2 smile
Joined Apr 21, 2015
1 points
Sep 8, 2016
Crazy, when I think of destroying skin in a crack, I always envision a sharp (granite) splitter with really deep fingers where both feet unexpectedly pop.

This is almost exactly the opposite. I know the jams you're mentioning. Most of us can't get a jam in up to the first knuckle. On top of that it's pretty round up there.

Do you think the early season heat + early season skin softened you up?

I'll go ahead and say what we're all thinking. Since you left your flesh up there, there will be a family of lizards at SCB who have gotten the taste for human flesh. This isn't going to end well.

FWIW, I have fallen on a blue alien up top and it seems to hold. Always looks a little to small to me though. It's been many years though, some of those SCB cracks tend to get wider over time.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of the bottle
OUCH.... never saw that before. Looks like you did put your fingers in a lightsocket!

Your getting good tips I guess.


Heal up
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
363 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: The route in it's entirety.
the ultimate gobie! fuckkkkkk glad you didn't deck! Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
842 points
Sep 8, 2016
obligatory ethics question: does the ring finger tip now count as booty? ChossKing
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 2, 2014
3 points
Sep 8, 2016
Burt Bronson would have cauterized and the base and booted up for the Redpoint!!!!!

Heal up bud. Gnarly tale of woe
Arthur
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 5, 2008
111 points
Sep 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Sending
grog m wrote:
SO...if anyone up there climbs it please get my finger! Just kidding. But seriously, the 0.3 X4 saved my life and has some sentimental value...if you get it could you please return it to me?




Dude, it's called Fingers in a Light Socket for a reason. You can't just leave your project fingers and gear all over it, especially overnight. That's booty, up for grabs plain and simple.
Jon Hemlock
Joined Oct 13, 2015
6 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>