This route does go to the top of the cliff (unlike Access Scramble
). Gives access to these areas: Baldy
, Shadow Castle
, Devonshire, Puzzle Palace
, and (above the top) Good Book Wall. But there’s also a much easier way to get access to each of those areas.
It’s real class 4, meaning that it requires real climbing experience and technique for some sections -- and if you blow a move in one of those sections you’re going to get seriously hurt or die.
Directions: Start by getting up the Sunny Shortcut
. Next join the Tour des Picnics
route ... scramble up on grass + rocks, at first up past the large fallen dead tree, later trend right on gentler ledge to base of a gully below twin cracks (the Mambo
route). Up the gully, then onto the mini-arete which forms the right side of the gully. Look right and when see the gentle base platform of Baldy
crag area, traverse right horizontally a couple of steps, then down-climb a couple of shield flakes to reach the gentle platform.
Walk east to the right edge of the Baldy
base platform, then down to and across an airy gap (very exposed to a substantial fall). No handholds at first, requires very careful footwork and balance to reach good handhold on rock, then a big step onto the flat platform which is the base of the Albion
Walk right across this to a corner, then roughly horizontally right (east) past the bottom of the Shadow Castle
and Devonshire areas to below a steep gully. Continue horizontally east past this and past a rock buttress to below the left side of Puzzle Palace
wall area which rises diagonally from right up to left. Scramble up the gully along the left (west) side of Puzzle Palace
to reach wide gentle ground at the top of the cliff. warning
: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Protection for trad leading is unknown.
Cannot be top-roped, because it has a long horizontal traverse.