REI Community
El Mirador
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Access Denied  S 
Coatimundi S 
El Tiacuache TR 
Face the Music S 
La Prisa Mata  S 
Libertad S 
Yogi Goes to Mexico  S 
Yogi Unchained S 

Access Denied  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Magic Ed & Javier Gonzalez
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: MAKB on Mar 4, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
At the top of P4. Use directional to rap the rout...

Description 

This is a really great route, with awesome exposure and a really cool summit. It climbs obvious dihedrals and good face climbing up to the ridge.

P1: 5.10a - 11 bolts
P2: 5.10a - 9 bolts
P3: 5.10c - 9 bolts - crux. Some cool handjams and good exposure.
P4: 5.9 - 8 bolts - Jugs to the summit.

You can link pitches and do the route route in two pitches.

Location 

After hiking up steep terrain past the Wonder wall this is the first route you come to on El Mirador and is marked with a nameplate.

Getting down is maybe the crux. There are a couple options.
Rap the route you climbed, which posed the problem of getting rope stuck on the first rap, which isn't kind of indirect at the top. Or go down a fixed line 15 feet to another anchor where you can rap down to a ledge in the virgin canyon and then walk over to a 4th class down climb in the gully. Then walk down the steps in the virgin.

Protection 

12 draws + 60m Rope
Take 22 draws if you want to link pitches.


Photos of Access Denied Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3.  Fun and a wee bit run out near the top. ...
Pitch 3. Fun and a wee bit run out near the top. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Further up on the amazing fourth pitch.  Take a ri...
Further up on the amazing fourth pitch. Take a ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the fun 2nd pitch.  Watch those sharp ...
Starting up the fun 2nd pitch. Watch those sharp ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A little further up P1
A little further up P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of Access Denied.  Interesting climbing go...
Pitch 1 of Access Denied. Interesting climbing go...
Rock Climbing Photo: The last pitch on Access Denied, take a right at t...
BETA PHOTO: The last pitch on Access Denied, take a right at t...
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at the climb, you cannot see the entire cli...
BETA PHOTO: A look at the climb, you cannot see the entire cli...

Comments on Access Denied Add Comment
Show which comments
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jan 4, 2017

Weird route. Somewhat atypical climbing up the first two pitches. The second pitch will probably be laying on the ground someday. The 3rd pitch is awesome. Bring a number 2 if you're not comfortable running it out up an awesome hand crack after pulling the crux.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About