REI Community
Drug Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acapulco Gold T 
Anatolio T 
Black Nepalese T,S 
Crystal Meth T 
Dope Show T,S 
Euro Trash T 
Europop T 
Gram T 
High Times T 
Push It S 
Stemulant T 
Sunshine T 
White Trash T 
Yellow Brick Road 

Acapulco Gold 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: Sean Leary, Dimitri Barton, Ivo Ninov
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: Cedar Wright on Jul 4, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is probably one of the best 5.12s in Tuolumne. The crux 12c third pitch is CLASSIC sporty sport climbing with a very exciting and powerful crux on immaculate golden overhanging knobs. The position is exhilarating. There is potential for big but clean air potential at the crux! With no topo or route description for this climb, I pieced together some beta from Katie Lambert, but I'm not sure if I climbed the first and final pitch correctly. Really though, the middle two pitches are what you come for. Be prepared for some serious runouts on easier sections, especially on pitch one and four. Go for the victory whip from the top of the last pitch and break both your legs.

Pitch One: 5.10, Look for the obvious bolted arete, and start to the left of this. I think you can do some runout 5.10 at the start but I just headed up the obvious ramp to the right eventually reaching a single bolt and then a committing/dangerous but surprising secure 5.10 knob crux. Wander up knobs heading towards a ledge at the base of the obvious gold arete, and a 2 bolt anchor. It would be possible to start on Sunshine which might offer a more classic first pitch, or for hard-person points Anatolio.

Pitch Two: 5.11d, Place one cam in the corner, then head out to arete, and a uncharacteristically well protected 11d arete pitch on golden knobs, with the crux at the end getting to the ledge with 2 bolts. Excellent climbing. Lament the fact that the crux pitch is not bolted this way.

Pitch Three: The Money Pitch! Head out left off the anchor and clip two bolts and then get ready to boulder. There is no clipping up this one. This is really one of the best pitches I've done in Tuolumne. I couldn't figure out the sustained boulder problem on lead and figured out a way to toprope it before I red-pointed it... still quite thrilling as a head point. Straight up off the anchor is the crux pitch of Sunshine 5.10d R. From the anchor of this amazing pitch you can pendulum over to the Acapulco anchor to work the crux. Did I mention this pitch is AMAZING!

Pitch Four: and maybe Five. Choose your own adventure! Head up slightly left off the anchor to a single bolt. Look up into a sea of knobs with absolutely no idea where the first ascent went. No matter where you go, it's going to be a run out affair. When Sean Leary was still alive Katie asked him where he went on this pitch, but he couldn't remember. My solution was to climb straight up off the bolt and then eventually trend up and right onto Sunshine. I belayed at a two bolt anchor on sunshine about 60 feet below the top and then finished on the unprotected 5.7+ pitch.


Ten or so quickdraws
8 shoulder length runners
I brought A single set of Cams from .3 to 2.

Comments on Acapulco Gold Add Comment
Show which comments
By Katiebird
Jul 18, 2016

There is a topo in the Reid, Falkenstein Guide pg 162

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About