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Acapulco Arete 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Maddux, John Hansen 1995
Page Views: 1,287
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 22, 2005

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Just left of Chickenhead Holiday is this slabby area. There are three bolted beginnings here. This is the rightmost. Carefully work your way to the first bolt avoiding the potentially dangerous pre-bolt fall. Continue to the 2nd and veer left to the third bolt just off the blunt arete. Here the route steepens and the crux awaits. It seemed harder than 5.10b to me.


3 draws for the climb and 2 for the chains, a runner for a chickenhead tie-off would be helpful and if desired bring a couple of medium pieces for the easy finish.

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By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 13, 2006

I seconded this... This route, like a lot of slab routes in LCC has bolts above good stances and pretty good run outs (PG-PG13). I think this would be a heck of an exciting lead! And I don't want to try it any time soon.
By Timmy Fearn
Apr 2, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Good lead, I had an extra buddy give a spot, just to push me away from the abyss should I have fallen before the first bolt, but it's pretty easy to there. I wonder if some of those flakes have broken off on the wall to the right of the arete cause I was like 5.10b??? But maybe it was just sequential cause when I finally nailed it, I just cruised. That third bolt is way solid. I checked it many times before I knew what was up!

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