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Higher Education Ridge, West Face
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L to R R to L Alpha
Academia Nut T 
Basic Aeronautics S 
Big Man On Campus S 
Dr. Luval Goes to Harvard T 
Dweeb, The T 
Egghead S 
Frat Boy S 
Friends in Low Places T 
Grading on a Curve T 
Graduate, The S 
Mr. B Cranks a Feces T 
Party Girl S 
Physics of Flight T 
Pop Quiz S 
Professor, The S 
Trail of Tiers T 
Tuition Hike T 
Vocational Training T 

Academia Nut 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011

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Description 

Academia Nut starts near a cedar tree in a right-facing dihedral with a short hand crack. Relatively easy climbing protected by gear leads up the hand crack followed by a left-leaning incipient crack to another corner with a bolt, the first on the route, maybe 35 feet up. Getting past the first bolt is the crux (a "brain-teaser" according to the Ruckmans' 1998 guide), followed by some wild climbing and great position. Expect some minor looseness.

Location 

Walk up the switchbacks for about 10 minutes until you get to a relatively large flat area under a cedar tree with a few bolted lines just to the right (Pop Quiz and Basic Aeronautics). Look for the hand crack mentioned in the description -- it's the only vertical hand crack starting off the ground in Higher Education Gully.

Protection 

A small rack is needed to get to the first bolt; draws thereafter (3 lead bolts total). Include a set of brass or steel nuts (off-sets useful), some mid-sized stoppers, a set of cams to 1 inch, and a 2-3 inch cam (No. 3 Camalot) for the opening hand crack. Rap from chains (shared with Trail of Tiers).


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 24, 2011

Love the name!

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