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Gully of Higher Education
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Academia Nut S 
Big Man On Campus S 
Denali T 
Graduate, The S 
Lower Education S 
McKinley's Crack T 
McKinley's Slab S 
Professor, The S 
Trail of Tiers S 
Tuition Hike T 

Academia Nut 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011

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In the middle section of the west-facing wall in the Gully of Higher Education, about 10-15 minutes walk up the gully from Big Man on Campus and The Graduate, are two bolted lines. Academia Nut is the right one. Relatively easy climbing (5.9) protected by gear and a fixed pin leads up a short hand crack in a dihedral followed by a left-leaning, left-facing corner to the first bolt, maybe 35 feet up. (The fixed pin is not shown on the topo of the route in the Ruckmans'’ guide). Getting past the first bolt is the crux (a “"brain-teaser”" according to the Ruckmans), followed by some wild climbing and great position -- –borders on three stars. Expect some minor looseness.


The west-facing wall in the Gully of Higher Education can be viewed in three distinct parts, the lower part with Big Man on Campus and The Graduate, a center section with this route and Trail of Tiers, and a higher section (above a short 3rd class section identified as a “chockstone” in the Ruckmans'’ guide) with Ms. Luval Cranks a Thesis (among other routes). All sections are reached by the same path, which becomes more unstable (scree) once past the lower section and somewhat overgrown (consider bringing clippers and doing some public service). The approach is about the same distance as that to the Choss Garden, and more arduous, but the routes are worth it IMO.


A small rack is needed to get to the first bolt; draws thereafter. Include a set of brass nuts, some mid-sized stoppers and microcams, and a 2-3” cam. Rap from bolts (slings with a fixed ‘biner and a rappel ring; sling new as of 8/14/11).

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 24, 2011

Love the name!

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