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Gully of Higher Education
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Academia Nut T 
Big Man On Campus S 
Denali T 
Graduate, The S 
Lower Education S 
McKinley's Crack T 
McKinley's Slab S 
Professor, The S 
Trail of Tiers S 
Tuition Hike T 

Academia Nut 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011

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Description 

In the middle section of the west-facing wall in the Gully of Higher Education, about 5 minutes walk up the trail from Big Man on Campus and The Graduate, is a wall with several bolted lines. Academia Nut starts near a cedar tree in a right-facing dihedral with a short hand crack. Relatively easy climbing (5.9) protected by gear leads up the hand crack followed by a left-leaning incipient crack to another corner with a bolt, the first on the route, maybe 35 feet up. Getting past the first bolt is the crux (a "brain-teaser" according to the Ruckmans' guide), followed by some wild climbing and great position -- borders on three stars. Expect some minor looseness.

Location 

The west-facing wall in the Gully of Higher Education can be viewed in three distinct parts, the lower part with Big Man on Campus, The Graduate, the two 5.12s reported on MP, and several new bolted lines just to the left; a center section with this route, Trail of Tiers, and some other unreported bolted lines; and a higher section (above a short 3rd class section identified as a "chockstone" in the Ruckmans' guide) with Ms. Luval Cranks a Thesis (among other routes). The lower and center sections are reached by a good trail that switchbacks up from the mouth of the gully.

Protection 

A small rack is needed to get to the first bolt; draws thereafter. Include a set of brass nuts, some mid-sized stoppers and microcams, and a 2-3 inch cam. Rap from bolts (slings with a fixed biner and a rappel ring; sling new as of 8/14/11).


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 24, 2011

Love the name!

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