||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Original: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||235|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 4, 2007|
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Not a new climb but rather, unknown and unpublished. More info would be great.
A pretty good climb that requires some focus. Start up on a set of vertical flakes, then move to the right side and up, steming and clinging with some smears up and into a good stance on the right-leaning crack and a good hold to clip the first pin (so-so soft iron). Head up past this pin for a few long moves to clip a good angle and, making crux moves along the way (perhaps 5.9) and access a better crack and better gear- this line will continue to a good ledge just below a dead tree with rotten webbing on it.
To belay, move slightly south on the ledge to the live tree with a reasonable anchor (a retired daisy-chain, set up with double-pass throughs so as to be completely self-redundant) with a locking biner. This is also the standard rap for the area.
Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right-leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 pins Right
'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as SILI
2 fixed pins plus a standard light rack of stoppers and cams. The first pin is a stamped soft-iron, the second a good angle. The climb is a little 'heads up' but pretty safe with some attentive placements.
Belay and rap from the tree just south on the ledge.
By Jason Haas
Jul 29, 2008
This route is called AC-DC. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981