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Hackberry Wash Wall
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Abyss 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Probably Ron Olevsky
Season: Not summer
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: Levi Call on Dec 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Thank the rock gods

Hackberry Wash Wall is closed March 15 to June 1.

Description 

This crack offers sizes all the way from fingers to offwidth and has an awesome overhanging fist/rattly fist section. It goes up a southward facing feature which is located south of all publicly documented routes in Snow Canyon. I wasn't able to find out for sure who first climbed it and put the two (now very old) pitons and webbing up, but Ron Olevsky was one of the first to pioneer this area and a source told me that he had been getting first accents in the immediate area. It wouldn't be like him to pass up such an awesome line. I installed two expansion bolts today (12-26-14) and removed the old webbing from the pitons with only a solid tug. (re?)Named for the routes history of almost falling into the abyss of being forgotten.

Location 

37.18284, -113.63943
The directions are specific because there is no trail to this climb. Tred lightly.
Take the Johnson Canyon Trail which is located just outside the south entrance of the park until you hit the big obvious wash. Go left (north) and walk in the wash for a few minutes until you see a tributary wash on the right. Stay in/near that wash then when it starts to go up the hill towards the cliff go left and remain a the bottom of the hill. You will see the obvious, overhanging southward facing feature with the crack going up the middle of it. Thats the route. Approach it from the side, north of all the boulders.

Protection 

Helmets. All the choss isn't off this route yet.
A 70 meter rope minimum.
If you only have a 60 meter you can use the first set of chains as an anchor and do it as two pitches. Otherwise just clip them.
Single set Camalots from .3 to 1, three 2's four 3's, and five or six #4's, depending comfort level on fists/wide fists will protect the route nicely. Three 60cm runners and a draw.
There are two prema-biners at the top.


Photos of Abyss Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Its right by the red dot
BETA PHOTO: Its right by the red dot
Rock Climbing Photo: Its right by the red dot
BETA PHOTO: Its right by the red dot
Rock Climbing Photo: Double finger crack to wide hands to overhanging f...
BETA PHOTO: Double finger crack to wide hands to overhanging f...

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