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Opposite Main Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Abstinence S,TR 
Archaic Revival S 
Baby Food S,TR 
Chastity Belt S,TR 
Chopper Copper S 
English Breakfast S 
Exit Arête Right S,TR 
Gateway Drug S 
Gay Naval Twink Chemsex Party S 
project groove S 
shred or dead S 
Terrys Angels S 
Wintu Wall S 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Bernard?
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: NorCalNomad on Dec 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Pulling the crux moves just before the anchor


Route to the right of Baby Food, obvious chains anchor at the top. Starts either on the rock resting against the wall, or for added difficulty, just down and to the right of it. Little mossy/chossy at first..feel free to clean as you go! No lead bolts yet, top rope only.


Opposite the Main Wall


4 bolts and chains

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By Paul Bernard
From: Chester, CA
Jan 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Just added 4 bolts to this route. Still clocks in at about 5.9 with the crux getting to and past the first bolt. A little sporty for those not comfortable at the grade. We named it "Abstinence." :)
By Justin Johnsen
From: Nor Cal
Mar 18, 2014

Updated thanks Paul.
By Superdavinit
From: Santa Rosa, California
Aug 8, 2015

Led this today. Fun little balance sport route. Very good warm up stuff for the main wall or beginning leaders. Pretty straightforward holds and feet.
By Crimper E6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Sep 15, 2015

Its possible to finish at the new anchors up and R for the full 5.9 tick!
By Ellis L
From: Chico, CA
Sep 15, 2016

The last bolt was spinning as of 9/10/16. It is hand tightened for now.
By Megan Jean
Mar 11, 2017

Last bolt still spinning 3/11/17. Hand tightened again for now.

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