Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Shadow Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absorption T 
All Around Routine S 
Long Shadow S 
Made in the Shade S 
Nose Shadow  S 
Shadow of Doubt T,S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: James Garrett, solo, 16 April 1994
Page Views: 2,295
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Photo by Adam Jensen


Appropriately named, Absorption starts sucking you in before you have raced across the hardpan. An easy approach lures you to its base. The rock quality is superb on the first pitch, as long as you don't venture into the salt crystals and mud deposits that reside on the left side of the dihedral. Although solid in many places, the occasional chunk of mud will dislodge when pulled on. Easy climbing builds your confidence and warms you up. Finger cracks and face moves take you higher up, where the absorption process becomes complete. Hands turn to fists as the crack begins to turn from an easy left to more vertical right. Throw in some roofs and chimneying and you are nearly enveloped. Release yourslef from the crack's grasp and escape to a great ledge just underneath a small pine growing out of the face and belay. The second pitch is only for the adventurous that dare to continue up the widening chimney above complete with offwidths and exfoliations galore.


Most apparent natural line at Ibex. You can spot it from across the Tule Hardpan. It is an obvious, right-trending crack that starts fingers and ends up a chimney. Absorption resides in the shadow of the huge overhang on Shadow Buttress and is the inside corner of the dihedral.


Medium to large cams, a fixed nut protects a difficult sequence. There is no other permanent hardware on the first pitch. The belay consists of a bolt and chain. There is a bolt without a hanger slung with webbing and a leaver biner. The first bolt on the second pitch is easy to see from the belay.

Photos of Absorption Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Adam Jensen
Photo by Adam Jensen
Rock Climbing Photo: my first climb at Ibex
my first climb at Ibex
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben proves that there are more ways than one to cl...
Ben proves that there are more ways than one to cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch, home to a long chimney and exfoliati...
BETA PHOTO: Second pitch, home to a long chimney and exfoliati...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the first pitch from the belay ledge.
Looking down the first pitch from the belay ledge.

Comments on Absorption Add Comment
Show which comments
By Price
From: SLC, UT
Sep 24, 2012

Hard for 5.9. Think 5.9/desert.

A 70m rope will NOT reach the ground from the first pitch. Take 2 ropes or a tag line.
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Feb 7, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route - I agree with Price that it's hard for 5.9. The book says to take up to a #3 and possibly an extra #3. I took two #3s and a #4 and would have appreciated a couple more big pieces.

Also, the only good protection opportunity before the crux is currently filled in by a massive nest. I couldn't get anything in and did the crux with my last decent piece (a nut) about 15 feet below me. If you have a #4 or #5, you can protect just above your head for the crux. I had a #3 that was tipped-out and worthless.

And...if you swing rappeller's right, you can get to about 8 feet off the ground with a single 70 and then it's an easy scramble down.

Get on this route.
By Daniel Winder
Apr 11, 2016

To make this route fun bring one 1, three 2, three 3, two 4, and one 5 camalots.