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Absolutely Brilliant 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Robinson and Tom Leksan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,795
Submitted By: John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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John climbering

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This route starts out as a steep face climb then goes over a small overhang. Above the overhang make some great stemming moves using the feature on the left (this feature is part of the 3rd pitch of North Face) then up and right to the top anchors of Dragon Back. Sure blows Powerlust away. Full on sport route with a tricky crux but not too powerful of moves. A little pumpy through sections and not too many great rests. A must do on the leap ticklist. This is a very good well protected classic face route at the leap, the only difference is you're actually doing fun moves instead of the standard mind numbing dike mantels that the leap is famous for. The route has several thin moves that lead to a roof that is tricky then there are a few moves after the roof that are pretty crazy. In conclusion this route deserves to be done more and is a blast to climb.


This route and others (second pitch of North Face, Dragon Back, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW, and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along. See the Beta Picture at the bottom of this page for information on getting here and rapping off.


Bolts. Shares the Top Anchors with "Dragon Back"

Photos of Absolutely Brilliant Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brick of rock pulled out below the roof.
Brick of rock pulled out below the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Information on getting to an Alcove or ledge where...
BETA PHOTO: Information on getting to an Alcove or ledge where...

Comments on Absolutely Brilliant Add Comment
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By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jul 17, 2011

Visited the leap for the first time in over 20 years. We did about 15 pitches. This was my favorite sport climb. I found it a mighty stiff 11 B.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 18, 2015

My partner and I led this. The climbing is superb. There is some green-ness about the route with some pebble exfoliation, but all the feet and hands seemed to be staying put.

The problem with both in the party leading is the clean up. I would highly recommend somebody TR it to clean because I lowered off the chains and the resultant sawing of the rope across dikes was not a warm fuzzy situation. The climb is well left of the anchors so you are swinging back and forth... Not fun.

Additionally, the approach from the North Face anchors to the belay anchors is described as "third class"? I would recommend a rope and a finger to 1" piece or two. This is a low 5th class approach pitch. I used double-length slings since you are going down and then up. Mind some loose looking rock before the belay ledge, go straight up and then over to it. I realize "third class" is also the old school descriptor for soloing, just realize that is what you are doing sans rope with a nice 300' or so fall line.

Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse from North Face anchors. Down and to ...
The traverse from North Face anchors. Down and to the right, then up the featured column to the bushy ledge.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Sep 25, 2016

Pulled off a huge brick at the roof, the route is harder now but still possible.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 23, 2017

Another way to access this climb is to climb through the .11a P2 corner pitch of North Face, which is awesome if you can manage it.

From the top of that pitch, you can do a short, slightly rightward rap from the aforementioned P2 anchor to the small ledge at the base of this climb. This avoids the need to do some sketchy 5th class moves (agree that this is definitely NOT 3rd class, and it definitely IS exposed) or short belayed pitch that would be the other way to access those climbs from the "dish" belay at the top of North Face P1.

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