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Castle Rock - North Spur
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Absence of Authority T 
Hairstyles and Attitudes S 
Jesus and Einstein S 
Milk Toast S 
No Climb for Old Men S 
North Face T,S 

Absence of Authority 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 524
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Apr 3, 2006

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts with a somewhat dirty but fun 5.9+ dihedral. After about 70' you reach a small roof where the real challenges start. Protect well before leaving the crack and launching up into devious thin face moves (crux) leading to a seam that protects only with very small gear (ie. RPs, etc). Finish by veering right on a horizontal crack that leads to the top anchors of Hairstyles and Attitudes.

Note: The start of the route has vegetation in the crack that can be climbed around. Please don't remove any more vegetation at the start of this climb.

Location 

Just left of Hairstyle and Attitudes and left around the corner from the Crack House. This is the crack line at the far right side of the wall.

Protection 

Gear to 2 1/2" and small wires/gear (RPs, Lowe Balls...)


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By dave bingham
Sep 21, 2015

Hmmm. We avoided this because of the plants in the crack. The authorities may be less absent after seeing these kinds of routes go in.

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