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Abraxas Wall
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Abraxes Tower 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Baird and Roady(Steve?)
Season: spring, fall, or winter
Page Views: 2,724
Submitted By: David Mealey on Jan 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Lance Lemkau coming up the awesome last pitch. Rem...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


I don't know the tower or route name for sure but it is a nice, casual route with short drive and a short hike
The tower barely sits off the wall and has a bird beak like summit
If you are looking at the tower from the front of the prow the route starts to the right(roadside).
Climb a varied hand crack to a large ledge.Build a belay here. Then climb easy wide crack into the chimney behind the tower. Follow chimney to the summit putting protection in a finger crack inside the chimney.


Climb the route from the road side of the tower and rap from summit bolts to the ground on the other side of the tower.


Bring your standard rack. You will need fingers to 4 camalot sizes. There are two bolts at the top of the tower

Photos of Abraxes Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Climbing pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Is this the first pitch of the tower route?
Is this the first pitch of the tower route?
Rock Climbing Photo: Abraxes Tower from the alcove side
BETA PHOTO: Abraxes Tower from the alcove side
Rock Climbing Photo: Abraxes Tower from the roadside
BETA PHOTO: Abraxes Tower from the roadside

Comments on Abraxes Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Mar 9, 2011

Is this the route on the right side of the wall with an anchor up on the ledge? If so the first pitch is a nice 5.9 cragging pitch in its own right.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mar 26, 2014

Bring two 60m ropes for the rappel and watch the rope ends. Even with two 60s, there's just inches to spare!
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Mar 23, 2015

No need for the #4 camalot.
By Chris Baird
Feb 15, 2016

During the first ascent we climbed it from the other side (the side you rap from). 1st pitch is a changing crack just below the tower chimney 5.10
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Nov 27, 2016

Cool tower. It is three pitches however. 1st pitch takes you past a bolted anchor and on to a ledge where you can walk about 10 meters to reach an awesome crack to build your anchor. You can shove in #1s and a really tight #2. The second pitch continues up the crack you built your anchor in. All you need for this pitch is a .4,.5, 2, and 3. Belay from the chockstones that seem solid. Then chimney your way up past a gorgeous finger and thin hands crack. If you wanted to see it up I would suggest bringing 2 #0 metolius, 2 #1 metolius, and 3 .5 black diamond. Otherwise a single set of cams to #1 bd will keep you going. Anchor at the top looked great. This climb is in the shade.

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