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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A3-4

Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A3-4 [details]
FA: Bob Crawford, Pat Timson
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Jacob Smith on Apr 16, 2015

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


This description only applies to the first two pitches, which are a decent way to reach Madsen's Ledge, if anyone has info on the rest of the climb feel free to add it in the comments or message me and I'll put it in the main description.

Pitch 1 (C2) - start up the thin crack just to the right of the large block, easy C1 until below the first roof, ascend the right-hand crack initially and then traverse left before the second roof, thinner, lower-angle cracks lead to the typical Index belay station: five bolts, 1 good, 2 probably good, 1 probably bad, and 1 definitely bad, none with chains or rap rings.

Pitch 2 (A2 F) - climb the short, low angle, thin crack with many fixed copperheads, have fun slinging the chickenhead.

Pitch 3+ - god knows.

Both these pitches looked free-climbable to me, but I don't know that anyone has, again, feel free to correct me.


By the large standing flake to the right of the main waterfall, aim for the left-most tree.


Standard aid rack, including but not limited to:
cams to 2"
cam hooks
sky hooks (At one point I hand placed a large beak in a piton scar, but only because I didn't have a cam that would fit)

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