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The Central Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abrakadabra T 
Angel's Freeway T 
Antline T 
Bicycle Route, The T 
British Are Coming, The T 
Candidus/Frenchman's Fury T 
Colonial Ambush T,S 
Forest of Fangorn T 
Fortitude, Pitch 1 T 
Intimidation T 
White Eye, pitch 1 T 

Abrakadabra 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA by Ed Webster and Bryan Delaney on 6/22/75
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: Ian Wauchope on Oct 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

I am only describing the first pitch as it seems the upper pitches are rarely climbed. For more info on the upper pitches please consult Webster's guide.

Just right of Intimidation, climb an open corner (5.7). Exit onto a sloping ledge below an open right facing corner. Use a variety of techniques to get through the corner and finish with a fun mantle to a two bolt anchor w/rings. There are two pins in the right side of the corner and a bolt protecting the middle of the corner.

Location 

Directly right of Intimidation's first pitch

Protection 

standard rack to #3 BD


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By Ian Wauchope
From: Dover, NH
Oct 27, 2011

I climbed this yesterday and opted not to clip the pins. There are good cam placements on the crack to the left and it seemed to allow the rope to run smoother. Great climb.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 24, 2012

really fun, pumpy climbing! it gave me just enough to keep moving up and a well needed shake out just before the awkward mantle...

according to the new guide this route is just one pitch but there are a few options to keep on climbing from here :)
By burlap submariner
Feb 6, 2013

the top of the first pitch is really interesting, having a #4 at the top makes for a great piece of mind.
By sthomas
Jun 18, 2013

I kind of thought the climbing above the bolt, while excellent, was a little run out, with definite ledge-fall potential if you blow it before getting the gear in. At least PG-13 for the crux moves.