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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Harvey Carter, November 2004
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jul 7, 2015

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  • Description 

    P1. Pull over a bulge, then go through an area of large huecos. Step right to a large block, pass this gingerly, then continue right and up to a ledge. Climb straight up into a short groove and then to a major boulder-strewn ledge, about ten feet left of an obvious large tree (120', 5.9).

    P2. Step left, then go up a few feet to a slanting break. Follow this right for a few moves to its end. Gain a ramp up and left. Continue up the ramp a few feet, then go up the face above. Where it steepens, move right a few feet then up. Belay on a large ledge (95', 5.7).

    P3. Climb up a short dihedral, then follow ledges and blocks to the top (30', 5.7).


    The route is on the far, far left of Tanner Dome, beyond Ghost Rider. Hike the trail, then bushwhack up and left through trees. Pass a major dihedral/chimney system then a face to its left. The route takes an attractive, slabby face to the halfway ledge, then jogs left a tad, and then goes up to the top. At the base of the slab, locate a pair of large trees next to the cliff and a third about ten feet left. Start between these trees.

    Descent: hike to summit, then go left (west) and down the gully next to the dome.


    Gear: two each cams from tiny to 2"; one each from 2" to a #4 Camalot; nuts, especially RPs; and shoulder-length slings.

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