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Above the Groove 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Danger on Mar 31, 2014

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Description 

Above The Groove is the leftmost climb on Illusion Wall. The Illusion being that the climbs on this wall are steeper than they appear.

Above the Groove starts a bit right of the line for First Corner and quickly joins it. Sustained and sporty, this climb affords little opportunity for rest.

From the platform, an easy first clip protects hidden jugs on a steep face. Juggy flakes and pockets line the climb, but they're never as good as they appear from the ground. Using a surprisingly good arete, gain the insecure horizontal right before the anchors. A monster pocket above the horizontal gives a final bit of respite as you clip the chains.

Location 

Illusion Wall - the high, first visible rock face from the school gate approach

Protection 

316 steel (2006), titanium anchor (2016)


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By BrianWS
Apr 2, 2014

Does this start down in the same gully as First Corner? Or do you need to scramble up onto the platform, as you do for other routes on Illusion Wall?
As an easier variation, you can chimney/stem (cheating, I guess) through First Corner's 11+/12- crux. This let's you climb the sweet section of huge, juggy flakes that you miss if you start from the platform, plus you get a full-value climb that clocks in at around 5.11/-.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Apr 6, 2014

This climb starts from the platform but clipping the first bolt and dropping into the gully is a pretty excellent, natural variation.

It is not the same exact line as First Corner but rather starts to the right of it and then joins it, like an inverted y.

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