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Above the First Waterfall

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Maximum Impact Wall 
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Above the First Waterfall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 35.71259, -114.92464 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: DesertDan on Aug 21, 2015
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Photo: George Smith. Looking south at the upper ca...


The First Waterfall stops most people, so when going above it, one is rewarded with near solitude. The few people that come through here are usually canyoneers.

The wash is lined with bouldering and small, outspread crags form the wash to the canyon rim for the next half mile. The Second Waterfall blocks upward progress, much like the First, with cliffs that extend up the canyon sides. The Second Waterfall and the cliffs along the canyon rims, which end a little ways past the Second Waterfall, are described here. A few hundred feet up from the First Waterfall on the north side is Far Side Canyon, the largest side drainage in the upper canyon.

Getting There 

The Upper Canyon can be approached by the canyoneers trail starting outside the canyon mouth and following the small canyon around to the east.

Approach #1: From the mouth of Keyhole Canyon, take the smaller drainage to the left, following the Keyhole Narrows Trail.

Approach #2: From the base of the first waterfall, hike 100' up the Death Couloir (the one on the right) until you're even with the height of the waterfall. Then, fourth class across exposed ledges back to the notch above the waterfall.

Approach #3: From the town of Nelson, take the Old Nelson Hwy (aka dirt road) until you get to the turn-off to the FAA towers at the top of the hill. Follow this road about halfway up until an obscure jeep trail cuts up & across the hill to the right. Follow this narrow and exposed road all the way to the top of the last waterfall.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 17.0 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Above the First Waterfall
Rock Climbing Photo: Max Resist.

Max Resist 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Nevada : Keyhole Canyon : ... : Maximum Impact Wall
Start to the right of a low roof. Climb a small crack that bends right after e few feet, then back left through small shallow roofs....[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

Photos of Above the First Waterfall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo: George Smith. Looking south on the upper ca...
Photo: George Smith. Looking south on the upper ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo: George Smith. Edelweiss Wall and surroundin...
Photo: George Smith. Edelweiss Wall and surroundin...

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