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Area 51
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Alien Autopsy T 
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Alien Observer T 
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To Boldly Bolt where No Man has Bolted Before S 
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Abducted 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: dmPete on Jul 24, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Abducted/Taken. 10c if you stem, 11d if you climb...

Description 

Stem up a shallow dihedral for two bolts, traverse right onto a ledge. Tackle the rest of the the route either by stemming the heavily textured but otherwise sparsely featured dihedral, or grovel up the off-width crack that splits the two faces (former recommended unless you like collecting scrapes).

This route offers some uncommon climbing for Area 51, with some pretty exciting moves on rock where stem footholds are everywhere. The Oregon Rock book notes that it is runout. It's much more closely bolted than many lines at Smith, however a fall in certain places above the third bolt might result in injury.

There is an eliminate version of this route, called "Taken" that is face-only, no stemming. It's supposed to clock in at 11d.

Location 

In the top/center of Pod 2 (around the corner in the direction of the parking lot from the Wormhole/Alien Observer alcove). The bolt line up the face framed by two wide cracks.

Protection 

Quickdraws, janky two-bolt anchor with chains, but only one hanger. The Oregon Rock book suggests some gear is needed for the lower portion of the route. However, the bolts seemed to protect that portion fine without any additional pieces. Higher up on the route, supplemental gear to 1" might help this line feel more secure.


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