REI Community
Moderate Mecca
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abbey Road T 
Ace of Hearts T,TR 
Baby Swiss S 
Bad Soup S 
Boodler T 
Born To Bleed 
Carpetbagger T 
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 
Feelin' Groovy S 
Fleet Street T 
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 
Goose Poop Roof T 
Haj, The T 
Immoral S 
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 
Muckraker T 
Mugwump TR 
Not So Moderate T,TR 
Pending Disaster T 
Penny Lane T 
Route to Mecca, The T 
Scalawag T 
Side Effects S 
Singing Love Pen T 
Sir Climbalot T 
Small Claims T 
Soup Nazi TR 
Soupy Sales T,TR 
Stew on This S 
Treacherous Journey T 
Valentine's Day T,TR 
Vera's Roof 
You Who Jim T 
Unsorted Routes:

Abbey Road 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,461
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (116)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Start to the right of the Fleet Street slab, but to the left of the corner/gully. Cracks lead up the low angle face. This is a good route to bring a new climber on.


Standard Rack

Photos of Abbey Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Abbey Road with toprope set up.
BETA PHOTO: Abbey Road with toprope set up.
Rock Climbing Photo: "Abbey Road" by The Beatles.
"Abbey Road" by The Beatles.
Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse left from here to the Muckraker anchors a...
Traverse left from here to the Muckraker anchors a...
Rock Climbing Photo: WAY too much fun for 5.4??!!
WAY too much fun for 5.4??!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the thin but good crack on Abbey Road
Following the thin but good crack on Abbey Road
Rock Climbing Photo: Dalon leading Abbey Road; the best easy Trad route...
Dalon leading Abbey Road; the best easy Trad route...

Comments on Abbey Road Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 13, 2017
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 9, 2005
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

This is my favorite 5.4 in Red Rock. Perfect for beginners, perfect for new leaders...good line in general.

You can also use this line to set a TR for Fleet Street and Muckraker. Although you could set if for Scalawag as well, the rope stretch makes the fall at the crux very dangerous (groundfall is a high likelihood).
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2006
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I agree with last post; Excellent easy route for the area and especially at this grade! Do not miss and watch out for those Chuckwalla's living in the cracks!
By Mike Mu.
From: hagerstown
Apr 18, 2007

great route! just bring small nuts for the lower half, a few small cams up to metolius black (0.75 camalot) would be fine for the upper section. nice bolted anchor and rap station on ledge above overhang. single 60m rope will get you back to the base.
By Ron Graham
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Great place for a new leader because of its low angle, large footholds, and frequency of placement options for small nuts and cams. It's pretty out of the way for most people climbing in the Moderate Mecca area, so it's pretty easy to get on it.
By cassondra long
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

The first pitch can be easily protected with only passive gear IMHO.
By hyadventure
From: Santa Ana
Mar 22, 2010

Great route for a first trad lead. Takes passive and active pro easly and has a quality bolted anchor.
By Alex Rogers
From: Sydney, Australia
Oct 4, 2011

Excellent climb, well protected easy fun.
By dirty son of a cinch
From: las vegas, nv
Feb 8, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

to left of the crack is two bolts going up and makes for a great climb{though i did this from top rope} after climbing the trad crack 5.4--great fun
By Keithb00ne
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 26, 2013

Most people stop the route at the top, but I think it is fun to traverse right and top out above Penny Lane.
By james schaefer
From: Henderson, NV
Dec 29, 2013

Heads up: there is a loose block (8 inches cubed?) on this route, just above the "overhang" feature and to the right.
By Dave Whalen
Dec 13, 2015

Good beginner gear lead. All the stances are safe to fiddle with gear. Mike Mu has it right, small nuts for the crack lower on the route, cams for the upper portions as the crack widens a bit. Easy to protect the roofish move higher up. Two bolt anchor with links. Easy rap to the ground with a 60m.
By David Kerkeslager
From: Brooklyn, NY
Apr 24, 2017
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

This route is great for practicing nut placements.
By Robert Michael
Jun 13, 2017

When I first climbed this in 2015, I did not see anchors above the second pitch, but when I climbed it again today, I noticed newish-looking anchors there, so I am not sure if I just missed them before or if they truly are new.

Anyway, these anchors make the easy second pitch worthwhile since you can rap back down without leaving anything. There is also an easy walk-off from the top back to the trail and parking lot.

You can protect the second pitch with up to a #4 cam, though it isn't necessary.

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