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Abbey Pond Bouldering

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Memories  
Eliquent 
Make Me a Highball! 
Melhado's Route 
OG Warmup 
Open Project 
Out of the Galleys 
Read Between the Lines 
Rotten and the Wicked, The 
Swab the Poop Deck 
Une Saison en Enfer 
Warmup Traverse 
Will and the Quill 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

All In
Great to climb and descend. Singletrack bliss. Near Keene, New York
Bronson Way
A pleasant dirt road that connects to many trail and parking areas at the Blueberry Hill Trail System. Near Elizabethtown, New York
Sunny Hollow Loop
A pretty thorough visit to Sunny Hollow. Near Winooski, Vermont
Passing the Horizon
This classic, technical roller-coaster was redone by the Fellowship of the Wheel in 2015. Near Hinesburg, Vermont
Hinesburg Town Forest Ride
This is a nice 1-hour+ (fast) loop in the Hinesburg Town Forest ending with Passing the Horizon. Near Hinesburg, Vermont
Pinner
Combine with Slight Return for an easier loop in the Carse Hills. Near Hinesburg, Vermont
From MP's sister site:

Abbey Pond Bouldering Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.03207, -73.08538 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,160
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ethan Y on Dec 24, 2015  with updates from freezeus
Forecast:
Today

89° | 65°
Tuesday

88° | 65°
Wednesday

85° | 57°
Thursday

67° | 44°
Friday

63° | 43°
Saturday

61° | 42°
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Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

Shady, wet, buggy, and beautiful. This area is secluded, although it sees light travel from hikers. In my time in the Middlebury area, I explored the area extensively and did at least 100 boulder first ascents, and bolted/opened a handful of sport/trad routes. Most were 2 star classics, unworthy of mentioning on this forum. If you are hiking in Brandon Gap and you see some rogue chalk on a pile of brittle, chunky schist or a 90 foot route with two bolts, that was very likely me (the good boulder problems, however, were largely already cleaned chalked prior to my time). Throughout this time, I returned time and time again to Abbey Pond because, although there is only a handful of problems here and they are mostly difficult, the schist(high-grade, almost gneiss) here is of the highest quality I found within a 30-mile radius. Flooding and/or past fluvial activity rounded the sharp schist features of these rocks, leaving the atypical features of these boulders, consisting of rounded crimps, slopers, and pinches out severely-to-gently overhung, smooth walls. Problems range from 5-15 feet in height. It's no-Font, but there are 3-4 problems here worth some attention. A great walk all the way to the pond if you are looking for a quintessential Vermont hike! After finally having nailed down my 3 year project in December, 2015, it is time to share this area with the world. Pictures will be up later this week when I head back out.

It is worth mentioning some ethics for this place that I would like people to respect for future consideration. I have, in general, aimed for minimal impact in this area. Topouts were cleaned when I felt the climber was in danger of a bad fall because of the vegetation at the top. Hence, the wicked boulder was cleaned at the top. Other boulders however, I have refrained from extensively cleaning. I enjoy the natural mossiness of the rock, and I hope that this remains in place for the future. Clean holds, but let the rest of the rock stay natural. Clean your ticks! Typically the rainfall will take care of this for you, but I would prefer to avoid excessive chalking. The only time this place ever looks like it has been developed is when it has been excessively dry and climbed, lets keep it that way. And please, watch the noise. Pretty sure noone has ever noticed me there, even though it is right off the trail. Screaming is really not necessary or encouraged here. Respect nature, don't litter.

Getting There 

Drive to trailhead for Abbey Pond. Take a right off route 116. Popular hiking destination, 5-10 minutes outside of the town of Middlebury. Park at the trailhead and hike for 2 minutes, obvious cluster of 5-6 boulders off the left side of the trail. If you hit the brook that cuts under the path, you've gone too far.
google.com/search?q=abbey+pond...

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 9.2 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Abbey Pond Bouldering
Rock Climbing Photo: battleship boulder-front

Out of the Galleys V9- 7C  Vermont : Abbey Pond Bouldering
The crux of this problem is in the bottom section of overhang. This is the most complex climbing sequence I have ever pulled through, and I have been unable to pull off three(!)of the individual moves since I miraculously pulled through on the first ascent. Not sure what happened, everything just clicked. Starts on two dubious underclings and feet on microedges in the viscious overhanging dihedral. Crimps inside the overhang, sidepulls out left, toehooks, drop knees, and kneebars all play a part...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

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