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The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat and Azenda Thompson, 1998
Page Views: 3,617
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (117)
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  • Description 

    This is the third route from the left. Climb up and right past overlaps between two black streaks. After the fourth bolt, continue straight up (placing a yellow Alien for pro) to a higher anchor, or angle left along a quartz dike to a lower anchor shared with the routes on the left.


    4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared with the route to the left). The 5.8 leader will probably want to attempt to place gear after the bolts end at half-height (small nuts or yellow Alien).

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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 26, 2016
    By Kreighton Bieger
    Jan 1, 2001

    Two things I noticed about this route. 1. It would easily go with gear for the competent 5.8 leader, 2. At least one very suspicious pocket on the route. Does anyone know about this pocket? Ive climbed in the canyon for 7 years and can count on one hand the number of perfect pockets I've seen and two of them were within 15 minutes at the Riviera.

    Otherwise a fun route that will mind bend anyone not used to runouts.
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Nov 15, 2001

    This route is called 'Abandonment' and is rated 5.8. You can continue up from the 4th bolt to a higher anchor (bring gear if a new leader) or follow the quartz dike up and left to the anchors shared with previous route. Either way a decent route on easy rock.
    Mar 26, 2002

    I can guarantee that there are no manufactered pockets on this route or at the Riviera at all.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Aug 13, 2003

    Microcams will also work well for the section above the bolts.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 28, 2003

    This route is fun but rather short. I felt it was a bit harder than Topless Etiquette. The four bolts are probably only 10 feet apart (total), then there is a runout of 30' or so to the anchors. The top part is easier, but you would probably hit the ground if you slipped. For peace of mind I'd recommend a few Aliens (I used a yellow Alien).
    By Randy Carmichael
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 1, 2008

    I wouldn't recommend running the top out. There is a thin move near the anchors and a slip would be fatal.
    By DamageVic
    From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
    Jul 8, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Did this yesterday- led it clean w/ the beta from this site. Placed a green Alien above the 4th bolt & a black Alien in the flake just a little ways from the anchor (above Lease Agreement/NLOL). Had a great time, fun route!
    By JJNS
    May 4, 2010

    I cleaned your draws off these anchors yesterday. If you left them there deliberately, I'm sorry I removed them. If you forgot them I will do my best to get them back to you. Pm me with a description of the draws, and I will make sure you get them back.


    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    May 4, 2010

    Maybe they were "Abandoned".
    By Andrew Shoemaker
    From: Olympia, WA
    Jun 4, 2011
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

    Went up this thinking it was pure's not. First 4 bolts are pretty low on the route and close together then after that it is runout for about 40ft to the anchors. Suprisingly a fun route for a 5.8 but if your not used to runouts with certain deckouts if you slip near the top then don't do this...or place gear.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 21, 2013

    The hanger and nut are missing from the first bolt. It looks like a 10mm SS wedge bolt (takes a 10x1.5 SS nut). I would replace it, but I am flying back to California tomorrow.

    Until the hanger gets replaced, you can clip the first bolt on the route to the left.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Aug 22, 2013

    Back in Colorado two months later. Dale Haas and I put a new hanger on the first bolt and upgraded the anchor bolts with Fixe SS double ring hangers.
    By Rick Vermeil
    From: Erie, CO
    Mar 10, 2014
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Definitely bring gear for the second half of this. A set of small to medium nuts will work, but TCUs or Aliens would be easier to place. I only used one small nut but would have placed another if I could of found another slot. However, I saw a few good TCU placements in the #2-4 range. The only cam I racked was a BD #0.75, and it did not fit in anything. There is ground fall potential with about 15ft of climbing left to the anchor. The climbing is easy as mentioned on other comments, but I would of been stressing it without gear. I thought the route was fun with sporty layback moves on nice flakes at the bottom four bolts (5.8), then a bit more slabby at the top (5.5-7). There is quartz in the granite for the first 20 feet which makes it a lot more slippery than the rest of the crag. No stars in D'Antonio's book, but pay no attention to that. It is definitely worth climbing!
    By George Bracksieck
    Mar 11, 2014

    Having led Au Natural and Abandonment recently, I think the former is a whole number grade harder than the latter.
    By Rob King
    From: Lone Tree
    Jun 26, 2016
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

    Super runout after the 4th bolt. Don't do this without added pro unless you're leading 5.10+. The move to the anchor is awkward on the left and right, and if you fall, it's ohhh about a 40 footer onto slab. Bring small cams and nuts, there are gear placement opportunities.

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