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Abandonment Issues 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown, Evan W?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 23, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The route is near the right side of the cliff, sli...

Description 

The top half of this climb had been bolted, then seemed to have been abandoned before the bottom half got done. This route was just too good to go abandoned like that, so I've finished it up with a few bolts at the start. It begins with a super steep overhang with massive jugs and big reaches. It is definitely one of the best 5.10- routes at LOTL. It is doubtful it has had an FA, as the crux is the unbolted first half, the three bolts above are on easier terrain. Clip the first two long if you can (slings). The climb felt like it could be 5.9 or 5.10b, so please post your grade.

Location 

Obtuse dihedral near the middle of the wall.

Protection 

5 bolts, chains and lower off biners


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Rock Climbing Photo: Steep jug hauling on Abandonment Issues
Steep jug hauling on Abandonment Issues

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