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Abandonment Issues 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, 3/04.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Dec 14, 2006

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Description 

Excellent quality thin, technical face just left of The Slab Direct. This was a very old abandoned project with 2 rusty 1/4" bolts with Leepers, plus a broken-off 1/4" drill bit. We replaced the first bolt, chopped the second (only 3' higher than first), and placed a bolt where the drill bit had been (pulled easily with fingers), then continued the route up and left into a scoop.

Location 

Face just left of the Slab Direct. The bolts are camouflaged and hard to spot.

Protection 

4 bolts, optional medium nut (protects 5.8 moves before anchor), 2-bolt anchor with hooks hidden in scoop.


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