REI Community
a_Main Slab Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Call of the Wild T 
Ingy's Ice Cream T 
October Sundae T 
Road North Start to Ingy's Ice Cream to "Orgasmo Slab"  T 
Yowza T 

a_Main Slab Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.46531, -71.06876 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,146
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 17, 2016  with updates from Ron Birk
Forecast:
Tonight

45°
Thursday

71° | 51°
Friday

68° | 58°
Saturday

74° | 58°
Sunday

71° | 55°
Monday

77° | 58°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Left Section of cliff - from about 20-25 min. on t...

Description 

This is the main slab. It covers from the far left side of the cliff to the large gully-cleft that slashes from Right to Left down the cliff and which is just left of the Apron.

Be aware that the Rap Tree used for the 2nd-to-last Rap (just beneath the big overhang) on "October Sundae" has toppled over and is no longer usable. It fell over with less than 50lbs force when I sat on it's lower trunk 8/19/16. Slings have been removed, lest someone grab them. The whole tree sits on the ledge with less than 10% of its (rotted) roots in the dirt. Use the double-bolt anchor 25-30 ft to "skier's/viewer's left on the slab. (scramble down, then up to the bolts, Class 3/4 "X" if unroped.)

Routes include (L to R):

More info and terse route descriptions are given in neclimbs.com

"Spell of the Yukon" (5.7) and "Yowza" (5.9) [both listed as "farthest left at the far left end, and both listed as "climb #4 on a photo]

"Panning for Gold" (5.7)

"October Sundae" (5.7) - see posted route description

"Ingy's Ice Cream" (5.7)

"The Road North...(to Orgasmo Slab)" (5.8)

Located on the main slab, but starting up high on the right are:

"Double Crack" (5.8)

"Gold Fever" (5.7) not shown on the neclimbs.com "topo":

"Call of the Wild" (5.7)

"Battle of the Bulges" (5.7)

Getting There 

NOTE: The following has been revised as of Aug 2016. The logging "road/path" is getting overgrown, in places with blackberry brambles...best not to try the approach in shorts! That being said, in Mid-Aug be sure to bring a container to fill on the walk out! Get 'em before the bears do!

From the described parking in the "Getting There" for the whole AREA, walk along a logging road that crosses a few small streams. After about 5-10 min this becomes a path. There are a couple of places the woods have really encroached on it. After about 20-25 min. walking, and just after one of the "encroached" sections look for cairn(s) on the right with a "^"shaped log next to it (photo). This cairn marks the closest approach of the path to the stream and just about the closest approach of the path to the cliff.

Leave the path and turn right at the cairn for only about 25-30 ft to the stream cross the stream and follow the path. This should lead back left a bit and then up right to the cliff. If you lose the path, don't worry you're really close; just climb straight uphill to the base.

[In years past you used to walk up the stream about 100-150 +/- feet to another cairn and then turn right into the woods. This old path seems to have been abandoned due to a huge silver birch falling across a short distance beyond where you turned out of the streambed.]

You should be at, or close to, the base of October Sundae. (photo) For other climbs (photos) move left or right along a faint path near the base.

The first time we went to the cliff we went too far on the path, then had a bushwhack to the cliff that included mossy slabs and steep going, and which put us too far left (south) on the cliff. Note the obvious diagonal of trees that rises from right-to-left on the "Left Section" photo. P1 of Oct. Sundae ends at this ledge, about 140 ft up.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in a_Main Slab Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for a_Main Slab Area:
October Sundae   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches   
Road North Start to Ingy's Ice Cream to "Orgasmo Slab"    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches   
Ingy's Ice Cream   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in a_Main Slab Area

Featured Route For a_Main Slab Area
Rock Climbing Photo: RH on P1 of Oct Sundae; he's over the crux and...

October Sundae 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  New Hampshire : Great North Woods Region : ... : a_Main Slab Area
Be aware that the Rap Tree used for the 2nd-to-last Rap (just beneath the big overhang) has toppled over and is no longer usable. It fell over with less than 50 lbs force when I sat on its lower trunk 8/19/16. Slings have been removed, lest someone grab them. The whole tree sits on the ledge with less than 10% of its (rotted) roots in the dirt. Use the double-bolt anchor 25-30 ft to "skier's/viewer's left on the slab. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of a_Main Slab Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Main Slab area - Left
BETA PHOTO: Main Slab area - Left
Rock Climbing Photo: Main Slab area - Right
BETA PHOTO: Main Slab area - Right
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Section of Cliff - from about 20-25 min on ...
BETA PHOTO: Middle Section of Cliff - from about 20-25 min on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gold Fever (5.7), start
BETA PHOTO: Gold Fever (5.7), start
Rock Climbing Photo: Battle of the Bulges (5.7), start
BETA PHOTO: Battle of the Bulges (5.7), start
Rock Climbing Photo: Panning for Gold (5.7), start
BETA PHOTO: Panning for Gold (5.7), start
Rock Climbing Photo: The cairn on the path where you turn off right to ...
BETA PHOTO: The cairn on the path where you turn off right to ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Road North (5.8), start
BETA PHOTO: The Road North (5.8), start

Comments on a_Main Slab Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Birk
From: Boston, MA
Aug 30, 2016
Use the path (see topo) from the parking area to October Sundae.
By beach
From: Portland, ME
Nov 6, 2016
If you are descending using the center rap line take care when coming over the eyebrow. I believe it is best accomplished by dropping into the notch on the climbers left side of the roof, then tensioning back right to get to the anchor. After tensioning right you can flip your rope out of the notch to pull it. A friend of mine core shot his rope by going straight over the lip, it is very sharp in spots.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About