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Northwest Basin
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A. Wexler's "Center Chimney" Grade Unknown  T 
A. Wexler's "Right Hand Chimney Route"  T 
Wild, Wild Life T 
Unsorted Routes:

A. Wexler's "Right Hand Chimney Route"  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: A. Wexler et. al 1946
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 29, 2015

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  • Consult with Park Rangers on climbing policy in such out-of-the-way areas
  • Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

  • Description 

    AGAIN THE RATING OF THIS CLIMB IS UNKNOWN (Had to put in some rating, and 5.5 seemed to describe "an abundance of hand and footholds")

    This is the chimney that "diverges diagonally to the right" from the "Center Chimney Route".

    This chimney has is "very shallow...only 3 ft wide" and hence has "[more] exposure" but it is "well fractured [with] an abundance of hand and foot holds." It was thus "climbed with great rapidity for 300 ft to where the chimney opened into a large, recessed balcony about 75 ft below the summit ridge." Climb the north wall of this balcony for "20 ft to a platform", then they "pulled ourselves over 8 ft of dangerous rotten granite. A short scramble took us to the top."

    Later a VARIATION was done for the "last 75 ft". Wexler and 'Chuck' "climbed the inside left corner of the balcony over several huge blocks and sloping ledges." Then a "violent" layback to overcome a most disconcerting pitch."

    DESCENT- Descend "the right edge of the cliff with some rappelling in places."

    Quotes are from a typed page of what was believed to be a private communication from A. Wexler to Bill Phillips, et. al. of the Boston AMC sometime during the 1950's or early 1960's. Later it was discovered that Wexler published details of his 1945 trip in 1946 Appalachia article.

    Protection 

    Usual rack


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