Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rattler Crags
Select Route:
A Waltz for the few Remaining T 

A Waltz for the few Remaining 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Chris Moore
New Route: Yes
Season: afternoon shade
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: R.F. Battitude on Jun 6, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
topo

Description 

p1.- 5.10c pg13, 9 bolts, a few camalots .4,.5,1,3 and one or two double length slings.
Ascend the arete clipping bolts and pull a tricky bulge (crux). climb up to a hands to o/w crack (gear+long slings) then continue slightly runout knobby arete climbing at 5.8-.9 to a two bolt anchor. 40m

p2.- climb 10 ft of 5.6 crack to a ledge essentially move the belay across the ledge to the next wall.

p3. - 5.8r 1 bolt, all gear. start up a splitter thin hands and fingercrack and follow the crack as it shoots out right to the arete. climb up beautiful brown patina passing one bolt. save a yellow and a purple metolious for some pro in flakes toward the top. two bolt anchor is out left of the "summit"

Decent: Rap with one 70m rope. Anchors are bolted with carabiner Mussy set ups. please leave the biners.. rap pitch one off the the right into the gully to reach. The pitch raps fine but I dont think you could lower off a leader..

Location 

Furthest right arete in the rattler crag region.

Protection 

1x set cams from .4''-3''
10x or so draws
2x double length slings ( nice to extend pro in p1 o/w)
1x 70m rope

Description 

p1.- 5.10c pg13, 9 bolts, a few camalots .4,.5,1,3 and one or two double length slings.
Ascend the arete clipping bolts and pull a tricky bulge (crux). climb up to a hands to o/w crack (gear+long slings) then continue slightly runout knobby arete climbing at 5.8-.9 to a two bolt anchor. 40m

p2.- climb 10 ft of 5.6 crack to a ledge essentially move the belay across the ledge to the next wall.

p3. - 5.8r 1 bolt, all gear. start up a splitter thin hands and fingercrack and follow the crack as it shoots out right to the arete. climb up beautiful brown patina passing one bolt. save a yellow and a purple metolious for some pro in flakes toward the top. two bolt anchor is out left of the "summit"

Decent: Rap with one 70m rope. Anchors are bolted with carabiner Mussy set ups. please leave the biners.. rap pitch one off the the right into the gully to reach. The pitch raps fine but I dont think you could lower off a leader..

Disclaimer- crux moves are well bolted but the overall climbing might feel a little necky by pine creek standards, expect runouts or about 15-20ft on the 5.8 terrain. as of june '15 only two ascents total.

Location 

Furthest right arete in the ratter crag region.

Protection 

1x set cams from .4''-3''
10x or so draws
2x double length slings ( nice to extend pro in p1 o/w)
1x 70m rope


Comments on A Waltz for the few Remaining Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -