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a1. The Uberfall - left

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
Cordelette Arete T 
Coronary T,TR 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Handy Andy T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Katzenjammer T 
Keyhole T 
Lower Eaves T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Pony Express T 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie K. Block, The T 
Trust Jesus T 
Zoomulator T 
Unsorted Routes:

a1. The Uberfall - left Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 972'
Location: 41.73715, -74.18851 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 88,873
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 13, 2011


68° | 48°

70° | 42°

70° | 48°

71° | 52°

72° | 57°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Uberfall on a typical summer day.

Along the Cliff 

next area: Uberfall - right side


Major Features: The Uberfall is the first section of rock you encounter as you walk north from the steel bridge that separates the Trapps from the Nears. On most in-season weekend days, a Preserve ranger is parked at the Uberfall, and it's a very social area.

Lest you think the Uberfall is named for the trickle (or, in season, the pouring) of water that descends down the escarpment here, Dick Williams wrote in his 1991 guide: The Uberfall acquired its name, according to Fritz Weissner in a 1960 Appalachia article, from 'the method used in the descent of letting oneself, with outstretched arms, fall across the four-foot gap between the massif and a huge block (Susie A) above the road'.

For our purposes, routes in this section include the beginning of the cliff -- the big whitish face you pass closest to, just where the carriage road takes a slight turn, is Katzenjammer. You'll pass the Gerdie block, walk under the giant Horseman roof. The two routes on the face right of the Horseman roof are the last in this section, Apoplexy and Coronary, just before the Laurel block.

Just below the carriage road across from Nosedive is another big block -- the Mental Block. It contains one of the Gunks' true crack lines, Sonja, and several other harder cracks, which face the road.

Approach: Most Uberfall routes start almost directly from the carriage road. A trail runs along the cliff between The Brat and the Gerdie Block.

Descents from most routes involves walking off; most Uberfall routes are single-pitch. Closer to the very beginning, you'll be able to walk back and scramble down behind the cliff. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Uberfall Descent, which provides the walkoff for the majority of Uberfall routes as well as many beyond it.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.9 miles from here

43 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for a1. The Uberfall - left:
Horseman   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Bunny   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Double Chin   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
No Picnic   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Nice Crack Climb   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Katzenjammer   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Brat Direct   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 55'   
Shit or Go Blind   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Dirty Gerdie   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Red Cabbage   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Nice 5.9 Climb   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   
Apoplexy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Double Clutch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Red Cabbage Right   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Nosedive   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Retribution   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Sonja   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Coronary   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
No Solution   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in a1. The Uberfall - left

Featured Route For a1. The Uberfall - left
Rock Climbing Photo: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...

Nosedive 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  New York : The Gunks : ... : a1. The Uberfall - left
This classic route is a left-facing, then a right-facing corner system capped by a crack, immediately right of Retribution.P1: The climb starts in a left-facing dihedral and works up to a small roof on the left. Clip a fixed pin and work up the short hand crack. The crux is the bulging finger crack above. The finger locks are bomber, so don't forget to enjoy the exposure. Traverse left to a bolt anchor. Rap with a single rope....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of a1. The Uberfall - left Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: CC Route is the crack on the left.  Note: the clim...
BETA PHOTO: CC Route is the crack on the left. Note: the clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of Boston
Nearing the top of Boston
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken's Crack on a cold day.
BETA PHOTO: Ken's Crack on a cold day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Laurel is the left crack with climber at the ancho...
BETA PHOTO: Laurel is the left crack with climber at the ancho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...
BETA PHOTO: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Dirty Gerdie
Looking up Dirty Gerdie
Rock Climbing Photo: Uberfall on the weekend
Uberfall on the weekend

Comments on a1. The Uberfall - left Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Lutz
Feb 21, 2016
Curious why Eyesore doesn't rate a spot here? Climbed it today, still think it's a good time!
Feb 22, 2016
Eyesore is in the list of routes to the left on this page -- its entry is here. If you mean 'why isn't it listed as a 'classic climbing' route?', the answer is that the 'classic climbing' list is chosen not by humans but by an algorithm of MP software, according to stars and number of ratings. Go add a star, if you adore it!
By losbill
Sep 9, 2016
Julie, under the heading of letting no good deed go unrecognized, thank your for all your hard work in making the Gunks section of MP such a valuable resource!
Sep 14, 2016
aww, thanks :). It's a good outlet for my need to tinker.

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