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A Tall Cool One 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Matt Fetbrod, July 2002
Page Views: 6,097
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Sep 7, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Splitting Hares, A Tall Cool One, and Centennial. ...

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  • Description 

    Located between Splitting Hares and Centennial is this entertaining 9 bolt sport climb. The 12a grade is a tad soft, but not completely out of the question, especially on the onsight. Centennial seemed to have a harder crux move, but A Tall Cool One is more continuous, and a more enjoyable route.


    9 bolts.

    Photos of A Tall Cool One Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Gino at the crux.
    Gino at the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me on A Tall Cool One.
    Me on A Tall Cool One.
    Rock Climbing Photo: A Tall Cool One.  Hardest moves are at 2nd and 6th...
    BETA PHOTO: A Tall Cool One. Hardest moves are at 2nd and 6th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Upper crux on A Tall Cool One.
    Upper crux on A Tall Cool One.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Midway on A Tall Cool One.
    Midway on A Tall Cool One.

    Comments on A Tall Cool One Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 31, 2013
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 31, 2003

    Climbed it 10/29. Good route with several crux-like sections.Grade 11+/12- seems about right. Traffic noise is horrific.
    By Chris Archer
    Jul 6, 2004
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    A key flake has ripped at the second crux, making the route slightly more difficult than before.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 18, 2004

    This is a pretty tricky climb and if it's rated 11d I doubt it will be downgraded. A must-do climb if you thrive on hi-octane exhaust fumes and burning brakes. The ambience is definitely worth a bomb.
    By Lon Black
    Sep 27, 2004

    Excellent route with some problem solving. Would be a three star if it weren't so close to traffic noise. Myself and two friends did the lower crux differently a couple days ago. The upper crux was good for me. I almost hung because of the difficulty of the clip, but I downclimbed three moves pseudo-rested and then went back up and did it. It was one of those spots and moments where you can screw yourself by having a negative mindset: thinking about a fall, fear, etc...but it was good for me because I was able to keep that at bay. Maybe that's why I liked the line so much.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 21, 2005
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    If I were sending pals to the crag I'd tell them this is one of the better routes, so I'll give it 2 stars. As for difficulty, I found it not so bad except for the one left hand side pull around the 4th bolt, which also is not so bad once you find it right. Felt easier than the route just to the right, "Centennial" (11c/d).
    By Bruce Pech
    Jun 27, 2005
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    The nut on the sixth bolt (protecting the second crux) is loose. I was only able to finger tighten it today.

    Two stars despite the route's proximity to the road. Sustained, very puzzling climbing. Even after I wired the cruxes, it felt like .11d to me. And when you think the climb's over (after the mantle to the rest ledge and a few juggy moves) there's a surprise before the anchors.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 27, 2005

    This route is "A Tall Cool One", 5.12a, first ascent by Dan Hare and Matt Fetbrod, July 2002, according to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport and Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon".
    By Chris O'Connor
    From: boulder, co
    Feb 14, 2007
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    11d/12a sounds most accurate. It is a beautiful route, with nice dihedral moves at the begining, stellar face climbing in the middle and juggy cruiser moves at the top. For the rock and the moves, it's classic, and for the lazy person or time crunched like myself, the close proximity to the road is a good thing.
    By Dan Mottinger
    Mar 28, 2007

    This makes a reasonable climb to do some quick aid practice, right by the road. You can basically climb the entire pitch as a bolt ladder, with a few mandatory free moves that are pretty easy, but still require getting out of the aiders. Don't need any gear besides draws when done this way with a few easy free moves.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 30, 2008
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    The low crux, on review, wasn't bad at all, just tenuous. Actually the second was the same. I felt that the moves were very footwork and body position dependent, not so much strength.
    By Matt Henderson
    Aug 25, 2008

    11d sounds about right - just a bit tenuous at times. Great climb for the location - I love fumes.

    Seriously, very enjoyable and keeps you on your toes.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 6, 2011

    I am surprised that this route does not get better ratings. The rock quality is pretty darn good (most of the route is bullet hard granite), and there are lots of thoughtful movements. Many people seem to bash the noise and fumes from cars passing by, but most people including myself go to The Bowling Alley to get a quick workout when they are short on time. If you want to be further away from the road, well just look at the million other crags in the area that sit high above the road. This route gets 3 stars and, in my opinion, is one of the better routes at The Bowling Alley.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 10, 2011
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Strangely enough, Curt, while you argue that it deserves 3 stars, right by your name it is revealed that you rated it 2 stars?!?!?
    By Evan Deis
    Jul 1, 2012

    +1 to TB. A great route. It seems odd to me that so many would turn up their noses regarding traffic noise. It is sport climbing at the Bowling Alley, after all. I think that 11d/12a makes sense if you stick to the bolt line; I believe that many cheat left at both the lower and upper crux.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 23, 2012
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Last time I was at this route, an 8 year old girl looked at it for a minute with a puzzled look on her face. She then turned to me and said in a confused voice, "Why are there so many bolts on that route?" I about spit out the water I was drinking.

    If an 8 year old girl thinks it's over-bolted, you know it is. At the crux, there is a bolt at your feet, knees, and face.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Oct 31, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Just did this route again, after a three-year climbing hiatus, and it took several tries after a month of fitness training. Then I did it two more times - once as a warm-up, and once at the end of the day. 12a feels more accurate than 5.11. It's definitely not 11b or c. I've climbed hundreds of routes in those ranges, all over the map, so I have a pretty good idea what they feel like. It would be interesting to know how many calling this route mid-5.11 actually onsighted it. I'm inclined to believe that it wasn't many, and for those who did, it wasn't near their limit. All routes feel easier when we wire them. The Web felt like 5.11 when I finally sent it.

    More importantly, the moves are classic and sustained all the way to the traverse up high, and then it's still interesting. Clipping the chains is not a giveaway if you're pumped and at your limit on this route. The bolts, overall, are a bit closely spaced, although this takes nothing away from the quality of climbing, nor does the route's proximity to the road.

    As a friend used to constantly remind me, too much comparative analysis can suck the fun out of almost anything worth doing.
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Oct 31, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I would have to agree with everything that KCP just stated. Perhaps most important is the fact that this thing is really fun. 12a? 11d? Meh, whatever. I did onsight it but didn't downgrade it...I guess I have a lot to learn about being a Boulderite. Next time I will have to channel my inner eight year old and get all grumpy about the bolting; perhaps then I can comfortably call it 11a.

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