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A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Franziska and James Garrett, 14 March 1997
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Left... or right, maybe just go up.

Description 

Easy face climbing to a bolt about 15 feet off the deck quickly turns to a puzzling sequence to the next bolt. Don’t traverse too far to the right or left or you’ll miss the climb altogether. Once past the second bolt, scramble up to a third bolt and cross some questionable rock on your way to the anchors.

Location 

Approximately 40 meters from the north end of the cliff band, a large roof caps a relatively blank face. Two bolts are easily visible from belay ledge under the roof.

Protection 

3 bolts to an anchor underneath the roof. Helmets are recommended due to the rotten rock surrounding the anchors. Rappel off with a single rope.


Photos of A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Three bolts to the anchors beneath the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Three bolts to the anchors beneath the roof.

Comments on A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing Add Comment
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By Kurt Montgomery
Jan 5, 2008

an incredibly fun climb. Kinda short
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Mar 23, 2009

Puzzling indeed. Even on toprope after leading it it was still difficult to read (5.8?). three feet left or right seems to be the answer... but... then I guess you miss the climb...
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Straight up the bolt lines felt harder than 5.8. Friction moves with very sloppy holds or super small 1 or 2 finger edges will get you through.
Old school 8+
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Apr 7, 2016

I supplemented the bolts with a handful of small camming devices: a #1TCU up to a .75 BDC4

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