REI Community
Quercus Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Prince Among Thieves S 
Channeling Your Wheaties T 
Oracle, The T 
Overdose T 
Querculator , The S 

A Prince Among Thieves 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: P Winter
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 31, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Devious corner cruxes with intriguing moves and a tricky roof on perfect rock about sums it up! A must do! Start out with some techno stems and meander up to a weird section where if a certain hold were not to exist, we might have a heinous 5.13ish despo crux. Don't let the location of one bolt fool you...
The roof move is a thinker. Don't bash yer shins!

Location 

Middle of cliff, leftmost left-facing corner with lots of bolts.

Protection 

9 bolts, 2 pins equalized with a tied runner (which needs to be replaced; a double-length runner will work)


Comments on A Prince Among Thieves Add Comment
Show which comments
By Raddam6
From: Salt Lake
Jul 27, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The fixed pins dont need to be replaced. They could be removed. If you don't clip them, it's just one more move on double jugs to clip the bolt, and the rope will run better.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Aug 8, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Alex was saying that the sling on the pins needs to be replaced, not the pins themselves.
You can place a blue or yellow metolius just left of the pins if you wanted.
This route is fantastic and the setting is incredible!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About