Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Guardian
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Prayer to Earl and Valerie: The John Joline Memorial Route T 
Serpentine Son Rise (AKA The Sunrise) T 
Theory of the Leisure Class  T 
Weather Window Waltz (The Guardian NE Face) T 

A Prayer to Earl and Valerie: The John Joline Memorial Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben Chapman, Jeff Woodward 7/4/15
Page Views: 476
Submitted By: Jeff Woodward on Jul 16, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The giant dihedral at the start of P2.

Description 

John Joline was a jubilant, one-of-a-kind teacher who taught hundreds of climbers how to place their first cam. His love of the sport was infused into all aspects of his life, and inspired many to seek summits, large and small, across the world.

John had a special place in his heart for the Grenadiers. So when he passed of cancer in 2015, we decided to put up this route in his honor. It's a lovely line in a high and lonely place, with 5 pitches of 5.8-5.9 capped by ~500 hundred feet of sustained, low class-5 simulclimbing.

John often spoke of Earl and Valerie, the gods of weather-and thus patron gods of climbers. His pre-trip libations to them -- "water for sustenance, beer for revelry, and orange juice for good health… and vitamin C!" were unforgotten by any who witnessed or participated in them.

When you climb this route, make sure Earl and Valerie are smiling on you. This is a big, exposed face!

P1. Step over the bergshcrund into a corner with a small flake. At the top of this corner, trend up and right through ledges and more corners to a slightly more significant dihedral. Follow this up, slanting rightward, to a grassy ledge below a large dihedral that is capped by a roof (5.9).

P2. Start in the main dihedral below the roof. After 25 feet, walk left on a hidden ledge to a large crack. Climb the crack (#4 helpful) and corner, and belay at the top of a large flake (fun 5.9).

P3. The Ledge of Glory. Continue up the left-facing corner from the flake to what looks like a horizontal crack about 20 feet up. Traverse right on the crack around the arete. Follow the awesome ledge into a fun corner system; climb this to the base of the V-slot (5.8).

P4. Ascend the V with a pleasant and athletic exit. Continue up corners and ledges to belay at the top of a grassy ledge. Beware the loose rocks on the ledge (5.9).

P5. Climb the obvious corner past a small overlap (fun!) to a left-facing dihedral. Continue up this to the ridge (5.9).

Simulclimb a long ways on great rock to the summit of the NE face. Optionally, continue across the cleft of the couloir to the true summit of the Guardian.

We descended the East Ridge, which took 2.5-3 hours with complicated routefinding. When in doubt, stay east. The route took us about 11 hours camp-to-camp.

Location 

This route climbs the right side of the steepest part of the Guardian's northeast face. After spending a long time examining the face, we believe that it's to the right of Serpentine Son Rise; it's to the left of the biblical couloir that splits the face.

To find the route, identify the notable V-groove a few hundred feet up. You can only see this feature from below the right side of the face. This V is pitch four of the route.

Below the V, identify a large dihedral capped by a roof. Pitch one ends at the base of this dihedral on a grassy ledge. The pitch starts in a faint corner slightly left of there. See the beta photo for more details.

Protection 

We took a double rack to #3, plus one #4. #1-#4 were quite useful.


Photos of A Prayer to Earl and Valerie: The John Joline Memorial Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on P5.
Ben on P5.
Rock Climbing Photo: A Prayer to Earl and Valerie.
BETA PHOTO: A Prayer to Earl and Valerie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stoke very high at the top!
Stoke very high at the top!
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing P5 - how does this exit work?
Finishing P5 - how does this exit work?
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben finishes P3.
Ben finishes P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff high in the V-slot.
Jeff high in the V-slot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking for the Ledge of Glory.
BETA PHOTO: Looking for the Ledge of Glory.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun dihedral!
Fun dihedral!
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of P1.
BETA PHOTO: The start of P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben near the base of the route.
Ben near the base of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stoke!
Stoke!
Rock Climbing Photo: The line, foreshortened.  Yellow is climbing, red ...
BETA PHOTO: The line, foreshortened. Yellow is climbing, red ...

Comments on A Prayer to Earl and Valerie: The John Joline Memorial Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 16, 2015

Fantastic, gentlemen!
Isn't the quartz here sharp, yet tremendous and pretty?
Gorgeous-looking pitches.