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i. Terror Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man T,TR 
Dreaming of Anything T 
Dreaming of PJ T 
Nutmaster T,TR 

A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,295
Submitted By: Taino on Jan 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Portrait

Description 

Never climbed this one; including it for completeness sake. Rating gleaned from conversation with others.

Location 

This route is on the left arete of the large block to left of Terror Dome. Start at left arete and traverse right to vertical crack in face. Climb face just to right of arete to big ledge. Follow crack to top. Easy walk-off.

Protection 

Uknown, but allegedly adequate. All gear anchor at top. Watch out for copperheads in the cracks.


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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Jul 4, 2010

The gear at the top is adequate, but no more than that.
By rogerbenton
Jun 24, 2012

i thought this had a few nice moves.

this also has a possible direct start but it's dicey:

jump to the good hold under the main face at the arete and campus/heel hook your way to a stance. a little harder than the direct start to the route on the right.
By Gunkiemike
Sep 3, 2014

I don't remember any "vertical crack in the face" on the lower part of this route. Once you're on the face (I make the big step off the block on the left onto the arete) it's basically just moving from horizontal to horizontal (with gear in each one). The upper face is steep so getting the gear requires a bit of stamina, but it was more than adequate; I think I placed two stoppers and a couple cams in that last 20 feet. Overall a very good face climb.
By Dave Pfurr
Apr 28, 2016

Oh...I liked this one! The step-across start is committing...like casting-off on an adventure. The protection was there--although I might call it more PG than G--at least in some spots. Definitely some challenges along the way. Might go back and try the direct start--looked appealing.
By Peter Theobald
Sep 5, 2016

The direct start involved jumping and getting hold of the corner of a small squarish block just over the roof. Perhaps 5.10b; I call it 'Ulyssus' because it's harder than 'Portait of the Artist as a Young Man. I will call it 'Finnegan's Wake' if you do the entire route as a campus without using feet, blindfolded.

I found it helped me to stand just a bit "uphill" (to the right and inside) from the squarish block and find a small feature to hold your right-hand fingers on as leverage for the jump, and grabbing the squarish block with my left hand. See the photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Ulyssus', the direct start variation of &...
'Ulyssus', the direct start variation of 'Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man'. Note where my right fingers are.